Friday, July 12, 2013

Done and Undone

And done again. But it still might evolve after I wear it a bit.

This shirt was a gift from a friend. (Thanks, Ginny!) She gave me permission to take it with me to DOL where Diane Ericson gave me some excellent ideas to try out on it.

It started out as a nice 100% linen shirt. A classic big shirt, or at least that's the way it fit me. Very long, dropped shoulder. Sleeves finished with conventional placket and cuff.

Here is what I've done (so far):

  • Removed the collar, left the collar stand, inserted a brown and white linen bias strip where the collar had been.
  • Added a raw-edge circle to the back yoke.
  • Removed the sleeves and moved the shoulder line up even with my shoulder blades.
  • Opened the side seam, added linen bias binding to armscye and side seams. Lapped the front side seam over the back. Top-stitched in place, leaving a vent at the bottom.
  • Removed the two pleats in the back in hopes of gaining some of the inches I lost with the previous step.
  • When that didn't work I removed the buttons, covered button holes with new buttons, inserted a strip down the front with new buttonholes. It now buttons the other way.
  • Removed the breast pocket and created a second one from one of the sleeves. Placed the two pockets low on the front.
  • Added gusset-type inserts so my bra won't show. It may become a vest but it's too hot for a vest right now.
  • Added and removed sashiko circles all over it.

Here is what I haven't done (yet):

  • Dye
  • Paint
  • Stamp
  • Stencil
  • Screen print
And it needs some kind of sashiko or hand-stitch. Still thinking. Hoping I don't take it past the point of wear-ability, veering into clown wear.



Original shirt

Tuesday, July 9, 2013

Permission to Play Freely, Sir

I'm not sure why, but sometimes I think I need to grant myself permission to play. And then I expect everything to be perfect. Or at least chic.

Today I played. Or maybe I just willed myself to play.


Sometimes (maybe mostly), my first idea is best. Version 1 was better than version 2 which was boring. And version 3 was ugly. So back to version 1. 

Fabrics in my on-going DOL piece

It started at Design Outside the Lines (DOL) - a RTW shirt that a friend gave me. And she gave me permission to give it a spin with Diane Ericson at DOL. I'm still spinning.


I love the piece of printed linen in the picture. The colors are richer in reality. It's a piece from Sawyer Brook that I initially found to be a disappointment because it is printed slightly off grain. 


Now I find myself incorporating it into lots of pieces as an accent, sometimes a hidden accent. It's funny how a piece of fabric can have that effect. In fact, I would have to say that, after Diane Ericson, this fabric is the primary influence on my on-going DOL project.


Yesterday I did finish this simple piece I started at DOL.  It was fun because it reminds me of the wonderful time I had at that retreat. And I thoroughly enjoyed the play with paint.



laugh until you are in stitches
We were all given a piece of cotton canvas, maybe 15x24. A nice surface for experimentation. 

And one of my personal goals at DOL was to become more comfortable with painted fabric. My first few tries were uninspired. Then after seeing some layering being done by Sharon at DOL, I decided to just paint over my first try. Some of the initial screen printing is still visible, which I rather like. The silk screens are from Marcy Tilton.

Given the French theme, I lined this bag with some cotton I purchased in Paris, or maybe Arls (in Provence) in 2004. It is almost the last of the Provençial cotton I brought back. More fond memories.



Now back to version 1..

Friday, July 5, 2013

Now Sewing...

CLD's Ebb lengthened
Aren't you glad you cannot see the side slits? Me, too.
Summer pieces.

I've been working on some projects started at Design Outside the Line, but took a little break to complete one work-in-progress from early June, and then a simple summer top, inspired by an DOL work-in-progress (to be blogged later - it's still marinating on the dress form).

First was the linen swimsuit cover up cut from CLD's Ebb (of Ebb and Flow). I lengthened it and left the side slits open to the marked spot. Way too high up on my hip, even as a swim suit cover up.

After reading a recent post on blue mooney's blog, I decided I would make the Ebb on my mother's old Singer from 1950.

It is such a pleasure to use. It makes a soft, solid sound as it glides over fabric. I should do this more often.

And it is a sound that reminds me of good times with my mother.

After I completed the Ebb, I took pictures of me wearing it. Oh, what I learn from pictures. Especially the ones that get deleted quickly.

It should be easy to fix this, I think.

Now I'm wondering if I'll be able to actually get into my swimsuit. Argh!



CLD's Ebb detail
sweet closure in the front - might add sashiko
I need chocolate!

Next I made my second top from CLD's Anything But Ordinary. What a great little summer top! The first one was straight from the pattern tissue - no changes. It is very plain but just the kind of top I love in the summer.
ABOtopneck
My first ABO top. Linen/cotton blend with Buffalo Nickle button on tab and silk patch in back
The second has lengthened sleeves and I omitted the tab at the shoulder. It is made from a yummy piece of silk noil - cinnamon. Even more basic, so I used a linen print for the neck and sleeve facings.



CLD's ABO top
Second ABO. Silk noil. I will wear it with the sleeve hem folded down, not up.

And that's how I celebrated birth of the USA! How about you? I hope you are having a terrific weekend and enjoying your sewing.

Monday, July 1, 2013

Re-Entry

(http://maurovinsonmassif.blogspot.com/2011/01/re-entry.html)
Returning from my first Design Outside the Lines retreat with Marcy Tilton and Diane Ericson, I imagine myself as a kind-of astronaut re-entering my own atmosphere. Changed, yet still me.

Diane taught me to think of refashioning existing garments in an entirely new way. In fact, I am now working on a piece that I started with her ideas at retreat. She has taught me to think creatively first, then reach into the bag of (technical) tricks in order to create the imaginings.

Marcy has encouraged me to trust my own creativity and to give it voice. She has modeled the deeply important act of encouraging other creatives. And we are all creatives.

The women who attended the retreat reminded me just how generous, fun, and nurturing a group of women can be.




Thanks to all!


Tuesday, June 4, 2013

I love this T!

Having just completed Katherine and Marcy Tilton's Ultimate T shirt class over on Craftsy, I find myself in love with a knit T shirt. And surprised.

I thought that I disliked ITY knit.

I thought that women of my age and shape should not wear ITY knits.

I thought the process of making a T should be quick and dirty.

But I am teachable. I think. I have certainly learned a great deal in this class.

As it happens, if I take my time and try some samples, things go really well. And I end up having fun.

And isn't this a great piece of fabric? It has a little story. I follow the lovely blogger ArtAttack who makes gorgeous clothing. She blogged about a T shirt made with this divine fabric.

Well, I had to have it. No luck ordering online, or over the phone. So ArtAttack, who only knew me from my gushing comments on her blog, drove to her favorite fabric store, bought it and mailed it to me. Such a generous spirit. I blogged about it here but it deserves another thank-you.

So as I prepare to go to my very first DOL with Marcy Tilton and Diane Ericson, I find myself very jazzed about T shirts.



Thursday, May 30, 2013

Stardust Skirt

This is a vintage style skirt from the 1930's by Decades of Style and is part of my on-going attempt to love skirts. I think it's working, BTW.

My mother graduated from high school in the 30's and so I imagine her in this style, coming into her own, trying to decide what to do with the life ahead of her.

With the very few options available to women at that time, she chose to take some business courses and became a stenographer. Now, there's a job title you don't see much anymore!


Worn with another TNT - CLD's pure and simple shell in African cotton
Anyway, back to the startdust. It's a simple A-line skirt with a few extra details. It has two (what I would call) gores on one side, and it dips slightly in the back. It fit pretty well right out of the envelope, based on my hip measurement. Even the recommended hem placement was right for me, I think.

This is likely to become a TNT pattern. Easy to make, easy to wear. I'm thinking the next one will be made in linen, a soft but slightly beefy one, so it drapes nicely. And I'll use piping on the waist instead of the traditional waistband included in the pattern. And I'll flip the pattern pieces over so that the zip goes on the left side.

the gores are on the right in this picture

I reduced the width of the waistband, but I'd like it even better with no waistband!

Wednesday, May 22, 2013

Sewing with a Four Year Old

Workin' it.
I sew for my grands more than I sew with them. In fact, I have found it to be a bit nerve-racking to sew with them. They want to press all the buttons at once. They want to hold the fabric tight so the machine does not eat it up. The grandboys want to press the pedal to the metal. My evil perfectionist twin rears her ugly head.

This is hyperbole, of course. I think (hope?) that I am really more cheerful, more patient, more helpful than I have implied.

A friend suggested another way to teach to wee ones, one that doesn't require building super structures under the machine to raise the presser foot. One that allows for me to control things a bit.

To start, youngest grandgirl rummaged through my remnant stash and selected a piece that was just big enough for an elastic waist skirt. Then she found a piece for a pocket and a piece of bias binding.

I helped her pin the rectangle into a tube. Then she climbed into my lap and *we* sewed. She was in charge of removing pins and dropping them on the magnetic case. I still had to help (just a little) to keep her from gripping the fabric as it attempted to go under the presser foot.

We added a pocket. We added the little bias piece. We sewed. We serged. We cut elastic and inserted it. She selected lace trim but couldn't wait to try it on.

I attached the eyelet while she rummaged through the remnants and played with ribbons. She takes full credit. I'm glad she does.
One Hour Later