Now and Zen Blend

The Now and Zen shirt pattern from the Sewing Workshop is definitely a TnT, or tried and true, pattern. There is almost no fit to it in either view. The Now is shorter and has a *rolled* collar that encloses the raw edges. The Zen is longer, has a center back pleat, as well as a double collar.

While I've made both the Now and the Zen exactly as provided in the pattern, I have more often incorporated aspects of each into a top. 

In this latest make, I used larger of the two collars for the Zen, as well as the center back pleat. But I made it shorter, as I find that is easier to use in layering. I also narrowed the sleeves a bit, and finished them with a bias binding.

The fabric is silk noil, some that I dyed (and overdyed) as part of my wonderful class with Jane Dunnewold, Dye Mastery: From White to Wow. I dyed several lengths of the silk noil, using basically the same approach with each. 

I have learned that dyeing more than a yard is really challenging with this low-water immersion approach to dyeing. In this case, I had a yard, a half yard, and a quarter yard. I only needed the first two pieces, but I kind-of wish I had somehow incorporated the quarter yard. 

The pieces I used tend too much toward yellow, not my best color, especially this warmer yellow. For my next project, I think I'll decide in advance what to make and then rough-cut each piece before dyeing. It will be easier to handle but it does mean the results will have some variety. I think that's OK.

I enjoyed sewing this piece. It is easy to handle in all aspects of sewing. I especially enjoyed the hand-sewing part. I used the running stitch to finish the sleeve hems, the front and back hems, as well as the button bands, and the collar.

Definitely a zen project. And it wears beautifully - very cozy - even if it does make me look a little jaundiced.

'Tis the Season

To be frazzled and overwhelmed, yes? I am trying to manage this more deliberately this season by keeping my expectations low. In pursuit of that, I'll start by admitting that a recent project was less than satisfying.

version 2 a.k.a. final version

Diane Ericson's pattern, Fault Lines, has some wonderful details and it's not your everyday ho-hum design. 

As mentioned in several previous blog posts, I am crazy about the sleeves and will most definitely draft that onto the next top I make. By repositioning the underarm seam on the sleeves, and an amazing design for the hemline, the result is elegant. Even though the grainline is similar to most ordinary set-in sleeves, it just seems to hang better.

One front piece and both back pieces are cut on the bias. The other front piece, and the sleeves are cut on the straight-of-grain. I have had some good success with bias but it is not always predictable.

As posted in a previous post, I made the undershirt version of Fault Lines in a light weight linen. Bottom line, it was really too thin to work effectively without something over it. 

I was quite enamored of the trim on the armholes. Sometimes details catch my eye and trip me up. 

that sleeve, oh my.

The main reason this project was faulty was that the fabric was too thin. After talking a bit with Diane about it, I decided to try to retro-fit it with a silk organza lining, similar to one Diane made. The silk organza, really an interlining on hers, gave the shirt just the right amount of weight to work well as a stand-alone top.

version 1 a.k.a. the wadder

Ultimately I gave that idea up. It took me a while to wad it up and put it away, but I'm so glad I finally did so. And then I pulled out a very similar, but heavier linen and remade it with no lining or interlining. I mostly like it.

version 2

The reason for the failure I think emanates from the fact that so much of this piece is bias-cut. Had I started out with it interlined, it might have worked. Or it might have failed in any case.

version 2 worn with matchy-matchy Capitola pants

As I've learned, woven fabrics have two distinct bias grainlines. Depending on the position of the warp thread, it will drape a little differently. Standard advice is to let a partially finished garment hang a day or so to allow the bias to settle into place. I found that helpful, trying to align the two bias pieces - light weight linen and silk organza - sucked the joy out of the project. After way too many hours, I gave up.

Now that I have one wearable top from all the messing around, I am not completely sold on the style. It is different and I have worn it, but...maybe I just wore myself out.

I have to say that I still rate this pattern quite high, and I'll probably make it again. I think it's particularly lovely with both layers, as you can see in my muslin version.

Now, this double layer might have worked with the too-light linen

Meanwhile I am enjoying the colors of the season and have a new project up my sleeve!