My Swing Set - the Jacket

My first version of Cutting Line Design's My Swing Set (MSS) jacket is almost completed. I need to add a snap or two underneath to manage the under layer when it is closed, and I need to move the button loops to allow the buttons to sit more comfortably on the jacket.

And I need to press it. It looks pretty good without even pressing, doesn't it? That's what I love about linen. It wrinkles and then the wrinkles fall out.


The fabric is linen from Gail K. When I opened it out, I discovered that it was faded along the fold. So I had to cut the sleeves short to avoid that. I added a bias cuff to each sleeve to make them full length again.

After deciding to go ahead and use this linen, I discovered that another piece of linen in the stash would be fun for piping. This is the good linen - a piece I bought from Louise Cutting a while back. I have plenty to make a column to go with this jacket. My column will probably be the little shirt from By Popular Demand, paired with either the tapered one-seams or the MSS narrow pants.

My favorite aspects of this little jacket are...

• general shape 
• asymmetric closure (if desired)
• shape of the collar
• cut-on sleeves
• goes with an existing column

The wooden buttons came from Gail K. And, of course, I bought more linen while there.

This jacket is a little autumnal in its coloring, so perhaps I'll wear to Italy in September. I cannot wait for this very special trip. But I won't wait to wear this little swing jacket.

This lovely little swing jacket may become a TNT for me.

Kimono as Canvas

Tuesday evening I am teaching a small class on the use of kimono as a canvas for fiber art. We will construct very simple kimono. Then the artists will have their way.

I have long been attracted to the kimono shape. It is easy to wear. It is easy to make. It is perhaps the original zero waste design, though the bog coat probably takes that honor. The kimono has so many more possibilities though.

If you are interested in kimono construction, you'll find an excellent pattern for it from folkwear. It contains two versions of kimono plus the very wonderful, and also zero waste, monpei (pants). I have made and continue to enjoy all three pieces in this pattern grouping called Japanese Field garments.

In preparation for teaching the class, and as part of my participation in the What-If Diaries taught by Jude of Spirit Cloth, I am working on a small white linen kimono.

After completing a pair of white linen pants, I had a nice size remnant, just enough for a child sized kimono. I drafted it proportionally to my available fabric, rather than using a pattern.

I sewed the sleeves to the body, as well as the underarm seams and the front band by machine. Then I finished all the edges, using various techniques, by hand. It is a great travel project.

The first part of the What-If Diaries is a study of white on white - using the shadows, and the slight variations in white to create texture, shape, and artistic composition. So I started the embellishment of my little kimono with a moon from one of its remnants:

Left side is needle-turn applique; right side was first stitched down the straight side, then flipped. Right curve is finished with a back stitch, then ruffled with my finger tip.

One of things that I love about linen is the way it responds to the heat in my fingers. No need to fire up the iron. Just gently fold where I want it, press firmly and stitch. And this particular piece is so soft and yet beefy. A perfect linen.

With spring appearing around every corner, I was simply unable to stay with white on white. You can probably see the vertical green stitching down the right side of the back:

It is a growing reflection of spring. As the yellow green on the flora turns to deep green in my yard, this piece acquires more and more, deeper and deeper color:

B5881 Fini!

B5881 Fini

Just completed my (first?) version of Butterick 5881. I think I'm going to enjoy it. Only time will tell.

Likes:

• Shape - so easy
• Proportions - don't normally like shorter skirts on me, but here I think it's necessary
• Slot openings on the horizontal seams of the tunic
• Happy accident that led to this neckline.

Dislikes:

• Not 100% happy with my choice of fabrics. May have a touch of the clown to it. Or Miss Firecracker.
• A bust dart would be good.
• It (still) gapes a little under my arm - probably should have made a 10 instead of a 14.

Otherwise, I'm entranced with this design, this pattern, and the whole idea of easy slip-on dresses.

Layers joined only at the armholes

I like the way the back kicks out.

Used a shirring technique with elastic in the bobbin rather than ordinary elastic.

It's OK with white legs too, I'm thinking. Hoping.

The Many Faces of B5881

Butterick 5881 has many faces, and they are not all views. I wondered why there were 3 views when it really looks like the only differences are trim and choice of fabric.

I have discovered new facets in this unique style.

Um yes, unintended consequences. SNAFUs. Design opportunities.

Here is what I *thought* the underdress would be:

My muslin/underdress

I am making view C - here is the real underdress:

There was another cutting line on the front and the back of the underdress, intended for use with coordinating fabrics (as in View C). Also I cut the denim muslin/underdress with the pattern pieces upside down. No problem, I said to myself. Just have to remember to flip all the others. Ah-hem.

And here is the tunic portion:

I had intended to raise the neckline and lower the hem. Got confused. I'm just going with it.

The dress might look something like this when I finish:

It's a tunic over a dress. How about that?

There are so many more design options than I initially thought. A tunic. A simple dress made from the (full) underdress, and of course many ways to mix colors and textures in a pattern with so many pieces. I think there are 19 pieces. Or were there more?

I cut a size 14 and really should've gone with a 12. I've had to take in the side seams enough to avoid over exposure. 

I'm already visualizing ways to apply these pieces to other patterns I have. I'd really like a bust dart and maybe a V neck. B5881 is turning into a rich source of ideas. 

Give it a go!

B5881 Start-up

Butterick 5881 is a dress designed by Katherine Tilton for Butterick. Blogger Seams Well has made one and it is lovely. So here goes.

As for fitting, I could tell from the reviews it might be a tad short for me. I could tell by a quick measurement that the neckline was too deep for me. I wondered about the armscye too - looked like it might gape. 

So I made these changes:

• Added about 3/4 inch to the bottom hem. This will likely be the finished length as I plan to bind the hem.
• Raised the front neckline about 2 inches. Still slides on over my head.
• Raised the underarm about 1/2 inch. I'll still need to pull it in a bit - maybe with an easing line, maybe by increasing the SA.

Dresses are very appealing. And comfortable. And breathable. Should be perfect during dog days of summer.

Now I'll have to get over my white legs and my mature arms, but my tummy will be camouflaged a bit. I hope. Oh, yeah, it will definitely be fine.

Such an interesting design. It should be fun to make. Got some plaid remnants selected from the stash. 

The muslin should be wearable as the underdress. It's a soft light-weight denim.

This is not too bad as a little slip of a dress.

MMM Day 3

Coolish again today.

Stormy.

A good day for comfort clothes.

Maybe I can avoid comfort food.

MMM 13 - day 3. 

Jacket - Sewing Workshop Ann's Cardigan in double sided fleece (upcycled from a failed jacket).

Pants - Sewing Workshop much modified Mimosa in cotton stretch poplin

Purchased knit shell.

Working on Katherine Tilton's dress for Butterick 5881. A puzzler pattern with possibilities.

MMM Day 2

MMM continues. So far, so good.

Spring is cool this year. It may lead us into a very hot summer.
It is very fall-like right now. Good to have some long-sleeved shirts on hand.

Top: Folkwear Middy as a blouse, handkerchief linen from Gail K, interlined with cotton batiste
Pants: Vogue 7881 (Claire Shaeffer), tapered legs, cotton twill, also from Gail K