Splice Top

This is the latest top pattern from the Sewing Workshop (TSW). But I've had it and used it for a few years now. While attending Sew Kansas some years ago, I had a chance to try on their sample. Then I traced the pattern pieces and brought them home.

the sample I tried on at Sew Kansas

After that, I made it twice - once with a nubby medium weight cotton. I forgot about the uneven hems and ended up chopping off the excess in this first one - I just had pattern tissue and no instructions. I love this shirt. I even removed the white stitching and over-dyed it at one point because the black had faded so much.

2016

Since the black one was so good, I made a second one almost right away, this time out of a remnant of China silk. This was not so successful. I did something cludgie in order to make the hems uneven. I added black piping to show off the side panels. But I haven't worn it much. I think it's too fussy for me.

Then I misplaced the pattern tissue. Each time I saw Linda Lee, I pestered sweetly asked her when they were going to publish this. It's just such a good wardrobe builder. They finally published it as a PDF a few weeks ago - hooray and thanks!

I like the loose overall shape, bateau neckline, and 3/4 length sleeves. It has one distinctive feature - the side panels that are shorter than the front and back pieces. But it's just so good.

This is the first one I've made with the instructions. The instructions are not critical, except for that uneven hem. Their directions yield a lovely finished hem and side seams. And that makes me happy!

The fabric is a Brussels washer fabric (linen and rayon) from Craft South. It is a shot weave with dark blue in one direction and turquoise in the other direction. I love the color! It is a much softer, lighter Brussels washer than I've sewn, just right for this top.

top-stitching on the 3/4 length sleeves

Initially I cut out the side panels and the facing in light green linen. I decided against this embellishment.

Yep, it is plain but I have a hunch I'll be reaching for it quite a lot.

And I have my next one planned already. This pattern is a blank canvas. There are so many opportunities for variations and fun. Maybe I need some new fabric...

Summer Sewing

At this point in the calendar, I'm really, really ready for cool weather. But the heat goes on for a while here in the SE USA. In fact, everywhere I've been this summer has been hot. Or hot and humid. I've had an unusually busy travel summer - Belize, Paris, the Alps. It was hot even in the Alps! My next trip is to the NE USA. The high there will be 98F.

So in preparing for this last trip, I knew I wanted another summer make. I chose the Cottage shirt from the Sewing Workshop. It's a little camp shirt. I made it last summer and that piece is still a favorite. This is partially because of the pretty light weight blue linen but also because of the pattern.

There are many things to like about the Cottage shirt. There is the classic collar and stand, but I prefer to omit the collar for this weather. There are the short sleeves, really just cuffs. There is a yoke in the back to provide a little interest. There are the side slits combined with a deep hem, giving it a little swing.

This fabric is a medium weight cotton print. I fiddled with working with the grain versus working with the print and then finally gave up and cut it out. I don't think either is a noticeable issue.

I lined the yoke with cotton batiste to reduce the bulk there. I also cut the yoke on the bias. This is both lazy and fun. It calls attention to the yoke and it means no pattern matching there.

I made no changes in the pattern and I am quite pleased with result!

I also tried to fix some things. I made this cotton pique Eureka top (also TSW) a while back. I don't wear it often as it feels like scrubs and the V neck was too high.

So I reshaped the neckline and removed the cuffs. The cuffs gave me enough fabric to bind the new neckline and the armholes. And I added a little something to the back.

I also decided to work on the lining of a hat I like and need to wear. The lining was becoming quite stained though the hat is still in good shape. I removed the lining, soaked and scrubbed it a bit and let dry.  It definitely looks better, so it feels better.

Then I tried to reassemble the hat. Now why didn't I make registration marks on the hat and lining so I would be able to re-align them?!? As a result, the reassembly took way longer that it should have. And then I just happened upon a youtube video showing that the entire hat is hand-washable!

Lastly I reshaped a tee shirt. I also goofed on this seemingly small project. I used the Grainline Lark tee shirt pattern that I've had good success with in the past. But my goof was that I failed to check the stretch on the tee shirt.

So now it is a little more fitted than I like. But it's better than it was as a shapeless man's shirt.

My next project will be the new Splice top from the Sewing Workshop. I acquired a copy of it during Sew Kansas a while back. I've made it twice and really like it. Then I lost the pattern. But, just in time, they finally published it. Hooray. I have my next one cut and ready to sew!

Fabric Shopping in France

I am back! I am happy/sad to be home. I loved my week with my girls!

I'm wearing another swing tee dress (2nd from the left, of course)

While in Paris, we of course visited Sacre Coeur and the surrounding park and shops. This area is also home to a number of wonderful fabric shops! So fun. But I had to be careful with my time, as my traveling companions are not into fabric at all.

We visited Sacre Couer and even climbed to the top for fantastic views of Paris below. We also briefly visited the church nave, but a service was underway so we were quiet and quick.

Then my sweet companions visited the souvenir shops while I power shopped for fabric.

Luckily I had already decided on one shopping goal - to buy some Liberty of London cotton lawn. One particular shop in this Montmartre area (Coupon) carries a huge variety of these cottons, more than I've ever seen anywhere in the states. And the price was not quite as high as I had anticipated - 26 Euro per meter.

I purchased a Liberty of London piece a zillion years ago at a gorgeous fabric shop in Asheville NC - Waechter's. I am pretty sure it cost $39 per yard! The shop has since closed, sadly. The piece was lovely to sew and I enjoy the blouse quite a lot.

In Paris I purchased two Liberty pieces, each of the same print but different colors - one red and white, one navy and white. I had a difficult time deciding but I think I made the right choice for my palette and taste. Some of the prints are too fussy for me. I also purchased a wonderful soft piece of gray linen for 10 Euro per meter.

The week in Paris was followed by a week with husband, son and family in Chamonix, part of the French Alps. I had no expectations of fabric shopping. The last day we were there, we visited Annecy which is a beautiful old city that sits on a large mountain lake, Annecy Lak. The city is quite large, but has a distinctive old town full of canals and restaurants and parks and tourists.

As we were wandering the old town, I happened to glance up at a building and see a sign: Tissus Couture. I said to DH, I'll be right back, (yea, right) and speed-walked to the spot.

It was a smallish store after the shops in Paris, but it had some lovely fabric. Again, I had to work fast. I found a pre-cut 1.5 meter of viscose jersey that I just love.

After a day on Annecy Lak, I was a bit worn looking but happy here!

I have just finished making a summer dress with it. This is, once again, TSW's swing tee revised into a dress. I drafted short cap sleeves and had enough fabric to add one (!) inseam pocket.

In order to hem without making it too short, I used a 2" bias strip of light weight cotton shirting as a hem facing. I like the effect. The dress feels light and yet has some hem weight.

My only regret is that I had too little fabric to place the darker portions more strategically. It was the last they had of this. And I just had to have it. It makes me smile. So light, so cheerful, so French.

It seems to be hot everywhere I go this summer, even in the Alps, so I'm still into summer sewing in a big way. And I am having a big time.

I hope your summer (or winter) includes some satisfying makes.

The back looks just like the front!

One More Before I Go

That's what happens every time I plan a trip and the accompanying wardrobe. I keep sewing and sewing, thinking I'll finally make the perfect wardrobe. And then, like Dorothy, I end up right where I started with all the clothes I will ever need, and more.

H and I made her one top for her Paris wardrobe.

This trip has been many years in planning - Paris with the grandgirls. I told them that I'd take them to Paris when the youngest was 10. And that is now. I terribly excited to show them Paris and watch them take it in. They are 15, 13, and 10. The 15-year-old has been to London with her parents, but the younger ones have never left the country. Their mothers and aunt were invited too, so there are 8 of us. High adventure for us all!

The 13-year-old is ready for Bonjour in her hand-crafted top!

My last minute finishes are a tee shirt and pants. But I've decided to leave the pants behind due to packing limitations.

Vogue 9063 with West End pants 

I do love the tee shirt. I used an old Vogue pattern I've used twice before with woven fabrics. It's a bit of a sleeper pattern, I think. A pull-on boat-neck style with a lower front band that can be a separate pattern piece or not.

I omitted the neck facings, opting for a bias binding instead. I should have made the sleeves 3/4 length but I'll roll them. The lower front panel is intended to be a separate piece with a matched facing. I overlapped the front and the front band to cut as one. Then I created a band facing on the bias and flipped it the the front.

For next time, I should remember that knits are really good for travel. I forget about them because I don't like sewing them - they wiggle all around and never look as neat as a cotton or linen woven fabric. And they are not as cool as woven cotton tops. As long as it's not hot like Atlanta, they are golden for packing and travel wear though.

This black and white rayon (I think) knit came from Louise Cutting's booth at Expo, as rare as hen's teeth in her booth. I do love a black and white stripe. To me, it says Bonjour!

The pants are black linen-rayon with lovely drape. I used the Picasso pants from the Sewing Workshop. It came down to choosing between these and my West End culottes. The culottes won.

Vogue 9063 with the left-behind Picasso pants. now I'm having second thoughts!

I may be able to close my suitcase without sitting on it. Just barely.

So jusqu'à demain et bon couture! I hope you're having a loving July wherever you are.

Never Say Never

I never wear shorts. Well, almost never. I own one pair of RTW shorts that I wear for walks, hikes, bike rides, rowing machine. Having this one pair of shorts allowed me to avoid making shorts because I do not feel all that comfortable in them.

Truly Terrible RTW shorts

After chaperoning 11 teens in Belize for a week, I have decided to come clean and admit that I wear shorts. There are simply times when shorts make sense. And these old RTWs are quite terrible.
So I made a pair of shorts.

I chose Fit For Art Eureka! pants as the starting point. These are narrow cut pants and so cannot be simply cut off. I think I tried that once and, of course, the results were not good.

Luckily I remembered that Carrie of Fit For Art had done a post on pants-to-shorts once upon a time. I was a little confused about part of it and posted a reply to her blog post. She not only replied on her blog but sent me an email message to make sure I was clear. Thanks so much, Carrie!

The fabric I chose is a linen-rayon blend purchased from the Sewing Workshop. I made a pair of culottes out this fabric and I love the feel and drape of it.

For mine, I first measured the outer seam of the awful RTW shorts, as these were the only reference point I had. I knew I wanted my new shorts to be longer so I added 7 inches to the RTW shorts outer seam.

Then I measured the outer seam of the front piece and the back piece, and folded the leg up so that my new shorts would be long enough, adding some for SA and hem. You can see in the picture the chalk lines I drew for the shorts. Evidently I'm not committed enough to making shorts that I think I need to create new tissue for them!

Based on Carrie's post and additional notes, I knew I needed to reshape the outer seam. Starting at the widest hip point, I dropped a vertical line to my proposed hem line. This added 1.25" to the width at the bottom. I added 1.25" to width at the inseam too, curving it back into the original curve near the crotch. I made the same changes to both the front and back pieces.

So that these would be a bit tailored, I added a fly to the center front of my shorts. Sandra Betzina's book is my go-to on this technique.

Then I decided to get fancy. I thought that perhaps a contour waistband would be quite comfortable, and, really, shouldn't the zipper extend into it? I could not quite conjure it in my imagination but felt confident it would all work out.

First zipper insertion, extending zipper into the contour waistband.

Creating the contour waistband was pretty easy. I created one that finishes at less than 2" in depth.

Extending the zipper into the waistband worked great on the narrow side of the fly front.

I watched several YouTube videos looking for a guide to installing the fly front zipper and extending the zip into the waistband. Nothing. There were several on adding a fly front, and there were several on extending the zipper into a waistband, but none on the combination of the two.

With unreasonable optimism I pushed ahead anyway. First I constructed the front darts. Then I added the front waistbands to each front. Then I installed the fly front zipper. All was swell.

But when I added the waistband facings, I realized that the facing would cover the top of the zipper due to the overlap created on a fly extension. To be honest, I did not realize it right away. I fiddled quite a lot. And let it rest overnight.

Nothing worked so I ripped out the portion of the zipper extending into the waistband. But that made the zipper too short. After an hour or so of picking black thread from black fabric, I was ready to install another zipper.

Second zipper insertion.

Sandra Betzina offers helpful advice on using a too-long zipper in this fly application. The stop goes at the bottom and the excess is cut off after it has been caught in the waistband. This creates a fairly flat transition.

Words were said, but in the end, I'm glad I ripped the first zipper out. I would've been unhappy with a too short zipper.

before the buttonhole fiasco

After that, things proceeded smoothly until I got ready to install a buttonhole in the contour waistband. My Bermina makes gorgeous automatic buttonholes. That's why I bought it. But it is finicky if there is any bump. That tiny zipper extension was just enough to cause it to get stuck.

So more words, more picking black thread out of black fabric.

Next I used the manual buttonhole - which is also darned good - and it worked just great!

I'm quite pleased with these shorts and will wear them proudly when the occasion calls for it.

easy machine hem

I should be careful when I say never. I used to say I'd never go on a zip line. And then I did.

But never again.

I'm serious this time.