Wednesday, October 14, 2015

Very very easy Vogue 9063

Vogue 9063 is rated Very Easy. And it is, but the rating made me wonder once again what that means. When I googled *What does very easy rating on Vogue patterns mean?*, shams Open Letter to Vogue Patterns was the first article listed. She posits that it may be related to the number of pattern pieces. I also wonder if it is related to the density of instruction.

odd angle, photographer laying down on his hammock

I've been keen to make the top that is part of Vogue 9063 ever since seeing it on BSF, Ginny (see below). Then, like many, saw the painted silk version posted by McCalls patterns. I have just completed my first version, this one made with an inexpensive Ikat cotton shirting from Gail K here in Atlanta.

My version - not too exciting. Maybe it needs sashiko.

BSF's version - so elegant

McCalls version - back

McCalls version - front

The instructions were clear, basic and brief. There was no mention of seam finishing which is a personal pet peeve. In fact the hem instructions strongly imply that you won't finish the side seam edges. But that is OK. I am fairly certain that seam finishes were not on my radar when I was learning to sew.

Changes I made:
  • Rather than hope-to-match my Ikat pattern pieces on the front, I simply omitted the lower band. This was easy because the seam between the front and the front band is strictly a design line. I just placed the band tissue over the front tissue, overlapping by 1.25 inches to account for the seam allowances.

  • Facings have their place in sewing garments, but in this case I was not excited about them. Instead I used a black bias strip to face the front and back neck lines. This was done before sewing the shoulder seams. 
Cut off the corner where the shoulder seams meet in order to use bias binding on neckline

Inside of neckline before finishing the shoulder seam

Outside of neckline

  • Seam finishes: I used a French seam on the sleeve. On the shoulder and side seams, I first sewed the seam RST, pressed open, and then folded the edge under and top-stitched. Does that have a name? And I serge-finished the armscye seams.
Such a simple top. I really like it a lot. This one needs to be in your stash. Maybe it already is? I have several silk pieces I'm considering for my next version. The McCalls version made from that detail of a butterfly wing makes me swoon.


  1. I've made this a few times, and like it very much! Cool and elegant, as you said. Thanks for sharing!

  2. I don't have the pattern, but I really do like the shape of the top. Love it paired with the skinny pants, but it works well with a skirt too. The fabric that McCalls used is woohoo!!! Would love to get my hands on a piece of it.

  3. I believe Spoonflower has very similar fabric: and

  4. I always had the impression that Vogue patterns were designated by level depending on how many pattern pieces they had, the more pieces the more "difficult" irregardless of how challenging the needed construction might be for a pattern with few pieces but curious design

  5. I'm with Alison on this. I think "Very Easy" is determined by the number of pattern pieces. It doesn't always make sense. But your top looks easy to make and extremely flattering.

  6. I think you're right about this pattern needing to be in my stash - love the neckline!

  7. Gorgeous top! Like this fabric.