Thursday, January 11, 2018

Inside Out Chateau Jacket

One day DC and I were out shopping the thrift and consignment stores and I spotted a bed set. It included two pillow shams and a 90x90 spread. And it has two interesting sides. Score!

So of course I bought it and cut it up. Because that is what I do, right? Cut up pretty textiles.

This is my third Chateau jacket, a pattern from the Sewing Workshop. I think it's my favorite. I love the white wool one but I'm so afraid of soiling it that I rarely wear it! I do believe I'll get the most wear out of this one. 

The Chateau lends itself it a large interesting print as there are only two pattern pieces plus a back facing. It is intended for non-raveling fabric and raw edges. I was able to use two corners of the bedspread for the fronts and a another finished edge for the back.

I think that the embroidery stitch used on the edges of the bedspread is the chevron stitch.
The Chateau pattern also includes instructions for binding the edges which is what I did. I had a cross-dyed cotton remnant in purple and orange. Just right for this crazy print.

It's not really a print. Rather it is large machine-stitched patchwork on very light weight cotton that is then hand-stitched to a heavier burnt orange back. The two layers are secured with hand sashiko done in stripes of cream, blue and orange thread. The edges are folded to the inside and hand-stitched together using a chevron stitch.

The stripes are wonky, as you can see in the pic of the markings for my welt pocket opening.
The first time I finished it, I realized that I liked the inside much better than the outside.

I am quite fond of the subtle pattern of the stripes of big stitches. But then I am partial to visible sashiko. I hand-finished the raw edges of seam allowances (SAs) in the following way:

  1. pressed the SAs open.
  2. trimmed out some of the bulk
  3. folded the raw edges under, and
  4. fell-stitched the SAs open along the folded edge.

The finishing on the seam allowances accents the lines of the Chateau jacket:

I even like the exposed back facing.

As originally planned, the outside sort of wears me instead of the other way around. I sought advice from a number of sewing friends and came up with a fix that I like. It is now completely reversible though I will no doubt wear the orange side out the most.

In order to have functioning pockets on both sides, I kept the original patch pockets on the wild side and created single-welt pockets on the burnt orange side. The patch pocket works as a pocket bag for the burnt orange side.

Here's how I created the pockets: I removed the original patch pockets. Then I added a single welt pocket opening to the orange side. I omitted the pocket bag. Next I re-sewed the patch pockets in place. So on the wild side, they are standard patch pockets; on the burnt orange side I have welt pockets.

I used an older Sew Confident tutorial to make the single welt pocket openings. It is very clear and easy to follow. This is available through the 2015 subscription to Sew Confident or as an individual tutorial found here.

This is not great fabric. I've already discovered a frayed place just above one of the patch pockets. That's OK. I'll add a boro patch and be even more pleased with it!

So which side would you wear?


  1. I like both sides but I LOVE the printed bright colours on the "inside" jacket. I don't think it wears you – I think you wear it beautifully. Love all the details. Well done. Brava! Wish I had that fabric, I'd make on for myself.

  2. The purple binding is fabulous! Just the right touch.

  3. Both sides, though I would gravitate to the orange. Fabulous both ways!

  4. I love the fact that you made this jacket reversible and love both sides equally. I think that this fabric is actually a Kantha quilt from India? The stitching really takes it to another level.

    1. Yes, I believe it was made in India. The tags had been removed. It is not as nice as some Kantha I've seen. For example, there are only the two layers. Some I've seen have multiple layers, each a nearly sheer cotton. But it was a fun project anyway.

  5. Looks like the Kantha quilt that was so popular a year or so ago. I kept intending to order one and make a jacket and never did. What a find for you at the thrift shop! As always, you turned it into a masterpiece. Love the pockets on both sides--so clever with the welt pocket and use of the patch pockets! Fabulous!

  6. This is a fabulous piece! I love the way you made it reversible, and I like both sides, but I like the print side more. I don't think it wears you, I think you wear it beautifully. I think it may be that you don't often wear big prints. It really is beautiful - great work!

  7. Both sides would work for me. A regional "odd lots" store (Ocean State Job Lots” had smaller, pieced throws for $40 for several months last year (I haven't looked recently). I eventually bought four of them! The quality is only fair, but there are several lengths that are beautiful. I keep pulling them out and rearranging them...some of them are great on both sides. My current thought is a sort of knee length duster. Love your technique to make it reversible and think that's just what I needed to finally give it a go. Thanks!

  8. Great jacket - thanks for the tutorial on making the pockets reversible - I'd forgotten. I love both sides but am partial to the solid color. I love colorful linings.

  9. Martha, Your jacket is absolutely spectacular and your solution to be able to wear the side you prefer is brilliant. I have a question about the beautiful cutting table that appears in your photos. Would you mind sharing the manufacturer and the specs on your table? I am in the process of looking for a better cutting table option than the one I currently use. Thank you very much,

    1. Thanks, Peggy. I love this table. I bought it about 10 years ago from the local Bernina dealer. I believe it is manufactured by Horn. The two ends fold down to a surface that is about 12 inches wide. But I never fold them down as my cutting mat is too large to store anywhere else. The rolling drawers underneath the tables wings were purchased from the Container Store in Atlanta. Sometimes I roll them out to use as an extra table or as a pressing surface. I have 4 - one in each corner of the table. Hope that helps!

    2. I meant to say that it folds down to the width of the built in drawers in the center - maybe 24 inches wide, not 12 inches wide.

  10. Martha,
    Your coat is beautiful. Hard to pick a side I like best. I love what you do with thrift store finds.

  11. I love a kantha quilt coat - so warm and cost, yet light and colourful. Wear the patterned side out and people will smile. Lovely

  12. I am retired, very new to sewing and live in sultry North Queensland (Australia). I am delighted to have found your inspirational blog with such elegant styles. Apart from struggling with fitting issues and sewing technics, I now have a TNT pattern - Tessuti Eva dress - like and airey, stylish cocoon shape and an easy sew - apart from a FBA fix. I am still struggling with a simple stylish wardrobe for the humid conditions where I live and also when I travel to cooler climates - I don't want to gather lots of patterns, but it's so tempting. I have attached a Flickr blog from Manuela HK who has also discovered Kantha quilt sewing