Vogue 1784 - I love it and I hate it

I've been anxious to get back into Marcy Tilton patterns. They are such good puzzles, a real pleasure to sew. But then Linda Lee re-introduced the Sewing Workshop Hibiscus, a very good shirt. I was torn but  Vogue 1784 won out. I wanted to sew a new-to-me pattern.

Vogue 1784 Marcy Tilton design

As I was pondering these two interesting patterns, I saw a review on Pattern Review by Linda Rohlfing of Vogue 1784. Her review is not positive, and it is accurate. I just had to prove it to myself. I'm stubborn that way. 

From Pattern Review, shirt by Linda Rohlfing

I love, love, love Gayle's version here. Her style is wonderful, edgy and totally wearable, a difficult combination to pull off, I think.

As Linda Lee re-launched the Hibiscus, I was drawn to her fresh summer looks. Her kits include gingham and other shirt fabrics in sweet combinations. Although I am strongly influenced by Linda Lee, I like to organize my own kits. Or I think I do.

Slightly modified from original Hibiscus Shirt pattern, Sewing Workshop

There was also this yummy display of summer ginghams and coordinates at Five-Eighth Seams, a lovely shop in Charleston, SC where we were visiting our daughter. I so wish I had taken a picture of their table. This shop knows its market and has fabrics that speak to the Charleston vibe. Their fabrics are also reasonably priced, so cheaper than a kit, in theory, if not in practice. Sigh.

Here is my 2012 version of the Hibiscus. Now that I've dropped some pounds, I'll be pulling this one out to wear again. 

In my heart-of-hearts, I know I like subtle hints of mixing fabrics. That little neckband is an example of something I like and I wear. Yet here is my first version of Vogue 1784, a what-was-I-thinking-make:

Part of the problem is that it is too big on me, maybe? I did not spot the finished measurements on the pattern pieces until it was too late. I chose size M and might trace off size S next. 

I have decided to think of this as a toile. I had fun making it and it wasn't terribly expensive. And, heck, maybe I will wear it. It reads pajamas and I can always use new ones.

I do really, really like this pattern with all its interesting twists and turns, especially the collar-from-hell. I have become somewhat complacent in my sewing with the Sewing Workshop. The instructions are extensive and I don't have to think that hard. 

The instructions for Vogue 1784 were not nearly so thorough. And that is sort-of OK. It is not a bad idea to engage my mind in a puzzle, though I prefer one with a solution.

Let's take a quick look at Linda Rohlfing's criticism of Vogue 1784. Her complaint is that one front facing is not wide enough to reach the shoulder seam and fully cover the raw edges of the collar. Her complaint is spot-on if you try to follow the written instructions provided in the pattern envelope.

Then I discovered a series of YouTube videos put together by Marcy on the collar and facing. Without these, I would have had the same problem that Linda did. I had a different problem. 

Look at steps 29 and 30 in the written instructions. It is impossible to cover the raw edges of the collar on the inside if these steps are taken. So, thought I, follow Marcy's videos and ignore the written instructions. Nope. There are too many gaps in the videos. I tried combining the written instructions and the videos. Nope. 

I wrote to her and she replied that, short of sitting next to me, she could not offer anything else. I sorted it out on my own but I'm not happy. There are weak spots that may ravel in the wash. That's OK - I might not ever need to wash this.

I love that interesting collar and I'm not ready to give up. If I come up with a solution that I can describe I'll re-post. 

In the meantime, here are some recommendations if you decide to make this pattern, included mostly for me when I try to repeat this crazy experience.

• Mark all circles, small and large, clearly. I used two different colors of basting thread to distinguish them on the fronts and the back. The tucks made no sense without really clear tailor's tacks for the two different sized circles.
• There four (4!) different pattern pieces labeled Front Collar. So, keep all collar pieces pinned to the corresponding pattern tissue even as while sewing them. Piece 6 looks a lot like piece 9 and I would never have kept them straight without keeping the tissue actually attached to them.
• Make more samples in hopes of inventing a way to make that collar!

Here is my finished collar from the inside:

Now I'm thinking I need matching PJ pants. Five-eighths Seams is just a phone call away. Maybe they still have some of that fabric...

Nope.