Red Noto Tee and White Jeans

  

When spring rolls around, I feel like I need white pants. And the previous versions of white pants just won't do. It's a fiction that I allow myself, imagining I'll look better this year!

Fiction aside, I have been wanting some white jeans. A jeans fit is of course quite different from other pants styles. These are extra comfortable due to the elastic across the back. Otherwise they are classic jeans with a couple of odd darts near the front inseam. You can barely see them in the line drawing.

It is tricky to get the proper fit through the stride and I'm still working on it with this pattern. 

Somehow a couple of yards of white stretch denim came to be in stash. I know that I do not like stretch wovens, so I'm not sure why I made that mistake. Again.

But I was optimistic making these Getaway Jeans from the Sewing Workshop. For one thing, I have a pair of black Getaways in 100% cotton denim and I think they fit great.

So I cut out and constructed a pair with this part-lycra stuff. All was well until I reached the buttonhole. The jeans call for lots of lovely topstitching and I really like that. Inserting the fly zipper was smooth sailing. In my previous pair, I somehow got the right and left waistbands reversed, so I was extra careful this time.

Boy, do I wish I had cut the waistband so that the length-wise grain would run around my waist. The pattern calls for it to be cut on the cross-grain. No problem with nice stable 100% denim. But with this stretch, the buttonhole was difficult. After a number of samples, I determined that a buttonhole made with my automatic feature on my Bernina was never going to work. So I made one using the manual settings. 

I tried them on. They feel great. And they look good from the front, I think. Here I'm wearing them with last year's bias cut Emerald top published by Made By Rae in red linen. I do love that shade of red.

And here I'm wearing them with my recent Berwick Street tunic (the Sewing Workshop) hack. I rather like the navy contrast with the white.

Now the back needs some tweaking. I'm not going to show a picture, but I sure do hope I remember to extend the horizontal crotch a bit next time. Also I will avoid stretch wovens like this one. I feel like I'm pulling the pants up constantly. It might be my imagination, but the black version in 100% cotton denim feels much more secure.

Here with the Bristol top in Alabama Chanin organic cotton knit

I also finished my first and last Noto tee from the Sewing Workshop. It is a simple t-shirt with an inverted V shape to it. I hesitated to make one before losing some weight. Now my measurements fit into a size M so I gave it a try.

Super easy-to-make Tee Shirt, the Noto

I used a luscious red rayon jersey with nice drape. It was relatively easy to sew, not much rolling. And I so love this shade of red. 

I did struggle some on the neckline. Initially I tried navy and white striped rayon jersey, thinking the stripe would be pretty. I cut it on the lengthwise grain so that the stripe would have the desired effect. This failed. By the time I made it large enough in circumference, it simply flopped around looking sloppy.

So I used the standard signature t-shirt neckline suggested by the Sewing Workshop. It does not look great flat, but the puckers disappear when I wear it. And doesn't it look fun with this Fillmore Duster in the same shade of red?

My first try-on made it clear that this length, combined with this shape is not that great for me. I cut off about 2" and like it much better. Here is the BEFORE:

And here is the AFTER:

This is not the best shape for me. The color makes it feel successful but I'm not loving the shape. My hips are just slightly larger than my bust measurement and I think this silhouette highlights it some. Maybe I'll wear it and learn to love it. 

It is RED, after all.

A Return to the School of Making

This past week I once again entered the nirvana of hand-sewing goodness, attending a workshop at Alabama Chanin. I attended my first workshop last year and was absolutely delighted to be able to attend again. I still learned a good deal this year, but was less worried about where I was going. I think I enjoyed it more this year. 

The facility is very low key in a warehouse district of Florence AL. You would not even see it if you weren't looking for it. The front half of the facility is a store with mostly garments for sale ($$$$$), as well as beautiful Heath pottery. 

To one side, they have positioned items for the School of Making - patterns, trims, thread, bundles, and racks of samples in various sizes for participants to try. All is displayed in a functional but curated Alabama Chanin style. 

The first morning goes fast with introductions and an explanation of the kit each participants selects as part of the price of admission. We have until about noon (!) to make our decisions. This year I chose the Fractal dress. I was surprised by how much I liked the sample, as I was expecting to go with the Factory dress, one I had tried on last year.

Everyone fell in love with this stencil design and color combination on a Peacoat.  I think many went home with exactly that kit - the Peacoat in two layers of Earth cotton knit, gray stencil paint, and Abbie's Flower stencil. Here is a shot of the work on the store sample:

I chose the Peacoat pattern for my kit last year.  I made it in Peacock-colored knit for both layers, black stencil paint, and the New Leaves stencil. It was fun to sew, though parts were a little challenging. This year, because so many people chose the Peacoat, they offered a tutorial on some of the unusual aspects of its construction.

I always feel good when I wear it. Their organic cotton feels very cozy, but not sloppy. I so like the way the two layers of knit meld to one another, as you embroider each section.

Since a 20% discount is offered on all purchases made while attending a workshop, I of course purchased a second kit last year. I chose the Alabama sweater pattern modified to bring the neckline up a bit. The outer layer is gray (Dove) and the under layer is red (Carmine). The stencil is called something like Text. I did not see it in the offerings this year and I understand why. It does not provide much space for cutting away the top layer to reveal the bottom layer, a typical technique used in AC garments. 

My selection this year is the Fractal dress with two layers of brown (Earth) knit, Abbie's Flower stencil, and the blue-gray stencil paint. 

I'm using a light gray floss for the embroidery part. Brown is just about my favorite color and I love wearing silver jewelry. I think this combination has a kind of southwestern feel to it, a good combo for this Texas girl.

First piece embroidered at home

My beautiful kit was delivered the second morning. They work hard over a short period of time to deliver kits to us all. The kit contains each of the pieces of knit cut out and stenciled, ready to start layering and stitching. It also contains tons of embroidery floss and button craft thread for the seams. Instructions are photocopied from the pattern and included. It is packaged in an organic cotton case and tied like a gift. A double layered sample is included so you can try out the techniques before started the kit. Here is mine completed during the drive home. 

As I did last year, I chose not to actually start my kit during the workshop. Throughout the rest of the our time, the excellent teacher provides short tutorials on each of the AC techniques for applique, embroidery, and construction. A lovely lady came out and demonstrated her beautifully crocheted snap covers. I gave that a brief try and decided to simply admire hers!

There are 5" square samples available, some with stencil designs, some plain, so that we can try out all of the techniques and see what we like in terms of technique and color. That is what I spent most of my time exploring. 

And did I mention that they feed us and dote on us for the three days? The ladies running the workshop are deeply southern in the most positive sense of that word, always cheerful, encouraging and responsive. Natalie Chanin stopped by briefly the last afternoon after many of the participants had left but it is really the young employees' show. It's like a spa for sewists.

I am now back home enjoying the first hand work on my new Alabama Chanin kit, getting a feel for how much I will cut away and what I will retain of the stencil. I will savor the process and look forward to the finished piece. 

And, yes, I did select a second kit. After all, there was a discount so I had to, right? It arrived today: 

I may need to start it now and not next...