Sunday, January 11, 2015

Revisiting Butterick 5891, the Jacket

After reading Dixie's review on Pattern Review, as well as her blog, I knew I wanted to make Butterick 5891 again. It is an inventive and lovely design from Katherine Tilton for Butterick.

The first 2 (!) times I used this pattern, I made a top, and then a vest. Then I made the jacket. Then I updated the jacket. I just love the jacket portion of this pattern - both making and wearing. And the other views are just plain fun to make.

The fabric:

This jacket is made from a wool double knit I purchased from Louise Cutting at a sewing expo a while back. It is an unusual double knit with big dot contours woven into the design. And I think it has just a hint of something other than wool in it. Something that makes black smoke when my iron touches it. Learned that early on and did not ruin anything. Whew!

The sewing:

The only thing difficult about making this jacket was that the fabric is very, very black and it is mid-winter here. Even with two Ott lights I struggle from time to time.

An early fitting indicated that I was headed towards droopy shoulders so I shaved some off the shoulder width. The sleeves still fit in easily and I am pleased with where the shoulder seam is now.

This large button is attached to the seam between the collar and the shirt front. I added a silk dupioni loop to the other side as a closure. I also added a French knot button lower on the front. I wore it this morning and discovered that I will probably use the lower closure most and ignore the upper button. It hides under the collar anyway. But it is a cool button.

As an aside, in my last post, I showed pictures of an art piece I am working on, part of a challenge from my fiber art group. The title of the challenge is *There is no place like home.* For some reason, I have struggled with it. I'm still struggling with it. Finally I put it away and made this jacket.

And I love wearing this little jacket.


  1. I plan to make this jacket from some men's linen shirts I have collected over time. I'll have to get creative with cutting I'm sure. I've had the shirts pulled out to cut the jacket and something else seems to be attracting my attention instead. Oh well. I love that fabric and the final jacket is a real winner. I can see why you like it so much.

  2. Love your new version of this jacket. It's really good looking, and looks great on you! The buttons are fabulous, too.
    Sorry to hear you're stuck on your fiber art piece. Setting it aside for a while is one good way of working with it. Even though it's not at the top of your "to make" list, it will still mull around in your brain and creative soul, and something good will come of it. I'm sure you'll make it work!

  3. I love all the versions you've made of this pattern and especially love this new one with its big beautiful button.

  4. Love the woven texture in this fabulous fabric! And interesting buttons too. This looks like a definitely wearable jacket. This pattern is really versatile, isn't it? I've made both jacket and vest too and hope to sew more soon.

  5. What a great idea; adding the buttons. I'm going to try that next time I make this. It looks very smart!

  6. Very cute! Wonderful fabric/button combination (my favorite detail!)

  7. Beautiful fabric and lovely jacket. Any chance of a quick tutorial on the French knot button? It's so unusual.

  8. I love your version of this, Martha!

  9. Your jacket is beautiful. Sometimes we need to just step away, do something different and then approach a project with new eyes.