Thursday, February 11, 2016

Vogue 9130 by Marcy Tilton

For about a week now, I have been sewing exclusively with knits, a change for me. I do like knits, at least some of them, but it's not my first choice for a sewing project.

It all started with an ASG class scheduled with Pam Howard, one of my all-time favorite teachers. Over the years, I have learned so much from Pam and this class was no exception. Plus I had a blast sewing with good friends.

After much back and forth in my stash, I settled on two patterns to make, a modified version of the Hudson top from the Sewing Workshop and this relatively new Vogue pattern from Marcy Tilton:

The fabric I chose is a periwinkle medium weight organic cotton jersey from Alabama Chanin. I am still learning how to handle this fabric. It is a pretty stable knit that curls but not excessively. It does not have a lot of stretch, maybe less than 20%. This jersey sews easily with a ball point needle and the recommended polyester thread.

This top has such interesting lines that I decided to highlight them a bit by overlapping the seams rather than sewing them right-sides-together. This took some doing because of the allowed 5/8 inch seam allowances, way too much for overlapping seams. After a little arithmetic and with rotary cutter in hand, I reduced the seams to 1/4 inch providing for a 1/2 inch overlap.

After nearly finishing the top, I decided to adapt view B to use the collar for view C. After much messing around, I abandoned that and now have a basic Stretch-and-Sew collar:

Pam fitted the top to me and I finished at home. Then DH took my picture. Ahem.

DH said, "That is a cute pattern. (pause)" And then "You did a great job making it. (pause)" You can hear the BUT in his assessment from here, I expect. And I agree. It adds pounds to my hips. 

It sure looks cute on the dress form.
Bottom line: cute pattern, fun to make, probably will never be a favorite one to wear.

Since the class I have finished two very basic shells and my Hudson top is still in-progress. The shells are made from Vogue 8793, that classic tee designed by Katherine Tilton for Vogue, the one with zipper teeth trim on the neckline. 

Each shell is made from Alabama Chanin light-weight jersey, one red and one black (which does not photograph well). Although both are labeled light-weight, the black is really more beefy. The red will be a great undershirt. 

The variability in knits is challenging to me.

These were easy to sew and very satisfying. I know I will wear them and enjoy the soft organic knit. 

No doubt I'm still learning about knits.


  1. I love it--especially the fabric you used.

  2. I really like those overlapped seams. The solid fabric really showcases them nicely.

  3. I do love knits - sewing and wearing, but you are correct - they can be challenging and all seem to behave differently.

  4. I think the blue top is really cute and flattering on you despite DH comment. Yes knits are generally easy to sew but the variance in knits (weight and stretch) is daunting! Karen

  5. The color is perfect for you and it looks comfortable. I call that a keeper. I find knits challenging as well because they all handle differently, but, like you I am recently working with them and trying to be fearless. I am NOT to the point of working with any fabric that I really like just yet.

  6. That must be such a treat to sew with friends and to be fitted by Pam Howard. She is one of my favourite instructors on Craftsy. Perhaps you might be able to provide more information on how she fitted you for the Tilton top? I've been drawn to many of the Tilton patterns, but have had some that just didn't suit me once all was said and done. I've wondered whether it was my fabric choice, or poor fitting. I really enjoy your blog and insights.

  7. It's gorgeous, and is actually a very graceful shape on you. I must confess I tossed mine. :-p

  8. I love the top, the pattern and your overlapped seaming. And, I think it looks great on you. Maybe in person it seems not to flatter but in those photos it's a winner!