Thursday, February 1, 2018

More Eureka!



Today I completed yet another pair of Eureka! pants from Fit for Art. After having been fitted by Rae at the Atlanta Expo last March, I have a perfectly-fitted-for-now pattern for fitted pants. What fun to know that almost any pair I make will fit.



This pair is as close to jeans as I get these days. I recently purchased this beautiful navy blue cotton denim from The Sewing Workshop for exactly this project. Often I make purchases without any particular plan. This time was different. I knew that a hole in my wardrobe could be filled by dark navy denim pants.

Because I could count on the fit, I decided to try something a little different. I used Sandra Betzina's excellent instructions from her Power Sewing book to make a fly front. Strictly speaking I think it's a mock fly front but, seriously, who wants all that bulk that you get with a real fly front.

Sandra's technique does not require a matching zipper. It will never show.
Adding a fly front meant that I needed a waistband, something I often avoid by creating a facing or even binding the waist edge. I made this waistband as narrow as I could and still accommodate an appropriate button. I think it finished at under an inch wide.



Even after I trimmed, graded and pounded it, the area for the buttonhole was too bulky for my wonderful Bernina automatic buttonhole maker. Luckily I made several samples and discovered this before even trying on the actual waistband. It was a no-go. My Bernina also has a separate foot for manual buttonholes that I almost never use. It worked out perfectly for this. It's so nice to options!


Because I am (really, really) trying to lose weight, I changed the construction order. In particular I attached the waistband to the front waist sections and the back waist before stitching the sideseams. That is, I cut and attached a waistband section to each front waist (on either side of the zipper) and a separate waistband to the back waist.



I am ever-hopeful that I'll need to take the side seams up some day soon and this will make that easier.



Also just finished this small gift for fiber art friends who are getting married. Each person in our group is making them a 5x7 piece of art. I do love fiber art. It never has to fit.




3 comments:

  1. Nice "jeans." I also like and often use S. Betzina's method for the fly zipper.

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  2. Well, that was ingenious to change the order of assembly so that you could more easily alter them. I would never have thought of that, I don't think. I just don't wear jeans anymore. I find them too restrictive, and I hate that waistband digging into me when I sit. These look like they fix all those things.

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  3. Love your jeans - that's how I make 90% of mine!! I like the idea of doing the wb like you did. I, too, am losing. However, I 'normally' don't put in a real zipper and do the elastic wb per Loes H. I've been using her Ascot pattern. Being on a ranch denim slacks/jeans are the best for me. Yours look very "professional/store bought"
    Marcia

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