More June Sewing: the Nikko Jacket

If you're a Sewing Workshop groupie like I am, you may recognize this vintage pattern. It is called the Nikko jacket.

About 8 years ago, I made a muslin for it and decided not to make it. I guess that's one of the few times I've made a muslin and really used it to make a decision.

But I kept the pattern and found myself returning to it from time to time.

A while back, BSF found and purchased for me black cashmere from Gail K. I kept it for a while. It's gorgeous but I could not decide on the best pattern for it. And I have to be in a very patient mood to sew with such a deep dark black. It's like a black hole. Everything disappears into it.

I'm glad I decided on the Nikko jacket. Even though the temperatures have been topping up in the 90's (and it's humid), I know I'm going to love wearing this come winter.

The fabric was wonderful for this pattern, though, of course, I did not have enough. As usual, that was a good thing. I created a separate lapel and made that with black silk dupioni. I also used the silk for the back neck piece and all facings.

This fabric is so yummy and does not fray at all. I used this feature to make some of the seams overlapping and I did not hem the sleeves, instead just cutting the hem off carefully.

I could have left the body hem raw edged too, but I love the mitered corners on the side slits.

I have not yet added the patch pocket, but I may.

I had to fiddle a bit to get the welt pocket to be acceptable. Initially I tried it with the silk dupioni but it was too wimpy. The welt collapsed in an unattractive way. So I pains-takingly unstitched it and made it in the cashmere.

It is unlike any welt pocket I've ever made. In order to properly control it, I sewed much of it by hand. I'm rather fond of those little pick stitches that show.

I inserted the pocket backwards. Shhh. Don't tell anyone.