Berwick Hack

The Berwick St Tunic came out a couple of years ago, I think. My first one was straight from the pattern with a few fit adjustments. I used a nice red and black cotton print. I need to pull it out and wear it again now that winter might be in the rear view mirror.

I love the fit around the neckline, shoulders and bust. The sleeve is beautifully drafted with height and a nice curve at the wrist.

This Nani Iro fabric has been marinating in stash for a while, petted occasionally. And I am so pleased that I finally cut into it. Just right for this simplified Berwick, I think. It looks black in the pictures but is really a deep navy, a favorite of mine.

This hack involves eliminating the *skirt* on the front and making it shirt length. I measured my new Sterling jacket to determine the length so that I can wear them together. I cut a size S with a forward shoulder adjustment. 

I extended the front placket to the hemline and cut two right sides so that I could use larger buttons. The original pattern includes a hidden placket that requires fairly small buttons. I decided I wanted visible buttons because it creates a kind-of vertical line in the front, always a good thing.

I also added an inverted pleat in the back, so that there is something back there besides a flat piece of fabric. This adds a little flare to the overall silhouette in a place where my flare is long gone.

Of course, the fabric is the star. What a luscious fabric this company produces. And the prints are artful and unique. More Liberty than Liberty. Soft, yet presses beautifully. Light and perfect for my hot summers though I want to wear it now! And that border print. I just love it. 

Using a border print in this way requires a little faith that it will hang properly because it is cut along the cross-wise grain, instead of length-wise. This fabric is stable enough that it is not an issue, as far as I can tell.

I was working with a limited amount of fabric and so decided to use some of my precious real Liberty of London for the inside collar, as well as a bias facing for the hem line.

I felt it needed just a little punch, so I added some frou-frou: bow ties on the sleeve cuffs instead a simple button. I also added two darts on each side so that the sleeves are little more narrow. I guess my wrists are small - TSW sleeves often feel too roomy at the wrist for me. 

And, yeah, the first time I dip them those ties in spaghetti sauce, I'll be re-thinking that design feature.

I am crazy about this shirt.