pants, pants, pants

V7881 - slacks?

While working on a pants muslin, it occurred to me that I've heard this more than once. Pants fit can be classified into 3 categories:

• trousers - crotch is low and does not touch the body
• slacks- crotch is more closely fitted but still stands away from the body a bit
• jeans - crotch is tightly fitted up against the body, causing a cupping in under the buttocks*

Sarah Veblen's book cover

I think I finally understand. Hooray for experiential learning. And pictures. Sarah Veblen covers pants fitting in her book The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting. Nice pix.

V8546 - trousers?

Pants fit is considered, perhaps, the most difficult of fitting. We are all shaped so differently. And the shape of the lower torso changes when you sit and when you stand. I noticed that because my gym has these horrible mirrors everywhere.

V1115 - jeans?

I hope to muslin 2-4 pants patterns. Sure do wish the descriptions were more precise about the crotch fit. Even the Claire Shaeffer pants pattern envelope is vague about the fit.

plaza

And I also like a pull-on pant like TSW plaza pants and CLD's one-seams. I'm thinking those are really trousers. Maybe.

*a cute look when you have a rounded posterior.

one-seams

Election Night Results

As I watch the US election results discussed, cussed, and fussed about,  I feel lucky to have such a satisfying hobby. It doesn't make anyone mad and makes me (mostly) smile.

I am keenly aware of this when a project proceeds smoothly. Take this jacket - Louise Cutting's By Popular Demand. It contains her signature instructions that are clearly articulated, thoroughly illustrated.

I was influenced by Margy of A Fool for Fabric and her way cool biker styling. She looks so very chic and hip in her jeans jackets. And I began to notice that often, as leaving the house, I wished for casual jacket to toss on. BPD may be just right.

Also I recently purchased this hand-woven Guatemalan fabric from a vendor at a quilt show. I love the colors and the mood of the weave which also seems to work with a jeans jacket.

The fabric did present a few challenges. Since it is hand-woven, it ravels easily and quickly. Also the fabric is only 36 inches wide. The stripes are symmetric around the center fold. I was able to manipulate the stripe successfully with one exception.

bias binding on inside

And I'll never tell.

Next up, buttonholes and buttons. I am auditioning these wooden buttons.

Then I hope to start wearing it. A lot.

And, now, back to the election coverage. I may have to eat chocolate.

October leaves; November remains

Happy Halloween to all.

Just a little end-of-month sewing. Too light-weight for now but I'll wear these in the spring.

Cutting Line Designs Pure & Simple shell, plus one-seams in tapered style.
Dark navy linen with a touch of sashiko

Next up? Coat? Jacket? Shirt? Pants? Small gifts? We'll see.

Take Me Anywhere (view A)

Here is my version of the latest pattern from Cutting Line Designs (CLD) - Take Me Anywhere (TMA).

Her patterns are such fun if you love reading accurate and thorough instructions along with appropriate and clear illustrations. Is there anything better?

I used to think so. I used to think that instructions were superfluous. No more. I'm a convert and like all converts, I can easily preach on the subject.

But I won't today.

So what do I love about this pattern?

• Interesting double collar with equally interesting and almost foolproof instructions
• Hem longer in back
• CLD signature sleeve insertion
• CLD signature hidden placket - also nearly foolproof
• Hidden pocket
• Styling that I feel good wearing

I used fabric that was gifted by a good friend when she purged her stash recently. She donated it to the guild via me. Wink.

The fabric was a sarong, mostly cotton. It seemed cotton when I  burned it, but I think I failed to burn a representative piece of it. It may contain a bit of something else - wool? rayon? In any case it was easy to sew and easy to press. Nothing melted.

I also used some remnants from other shirting cottons of the same weight - tiny navy blue check and a blue striped shirting. I also added some quasi-cuffs. 

Now that it's nearly complete, I getting a table cloth vibe. Perish the thought. I had such a great time constructing it. And I'm going to wear it.

still need buttons

bias strip at shoulder seam*

hidden pocket

Just realized that this is SAM7. Am I really that far behind???

*some matching issues due to size of sari and repeat in pattern.

One Easy Piece

Vogue 8546 - neckline

Easy but not fast.

This is an easy jacket made from out-of-print Vogue 8546. I was inspired to make it when a friend at City Wide Couture showed her version of this jacket during show and tell. 

In a serendipitous moment, I unearthed the pattern from my stash. Serendipitous and a little amazing given the state of my pattern storage.

Color pretty close

The pattern is one of those five easy pieces patterns from Vogue: jacket, a top, a dress, pants and a skirt. The jacket has two-piece raglan sleeves and a cut-on hood (part of the front). There are also in-seam pockets. So simple.

The pockets are in-seam but are a single layer, top-stitched on the wrong side of the fronts. I toyed with the idea of making them of lining fabric, two-layer and loose, but finally followed the instructions. 

The fabric is a light weight wool, from Waechter's in Asheville NC. Color is called tobacco. It was a dream to sew - stable, yet with good drape.

not true color

Because I wanted a single layer jacket, I finished the seams. First I sewed a standard 5/8 inch seam. Then I pressed the seams open. Lastly, I hand-stitched the edges of the seams under about 1/4 inch.

Love a hoodie

I did the same with the pockets which I do not totally love. This technique on a light weight fabric calls attention to the seams. I like that on most of the seams. The jacket has such simple lines that it needs a little something. 

So I added sashiko in a gold silk thread. Hmmm. Still needed something, so I wrapped the gold thread with black pearl cotton thread. 

The hem of the jacket and the sleeve hems are finished with a bias strip from a striped silk - a favorite technique of mine. Stripes are such fun.

This jacket will be worn a lot. It will be a great layer, I think.

In your stash too?

Rainy Day Sewing

Next time I'll do this during the debate. It's best not to watch. That way I cannot clench my fists.

Too bad I can still grind my teeth and bite my lip.

Yet with such a lovely piece of wool, all is zen. It is a rich medium brown with a pretty texture. Waechter's in Ashevill NC calls the color tobacco.

I'm making a single layer coat from an OOP Vogue pattern - Vogue 8546 - one from the five easy pieces line. A 3/4 length jacket - raglan sleeves, hood, in seam pockets. Easy seams to hand  finish.

Hand sewing is a favorite activity when I travel and have a little down time. Tho I brought my featherweight, it's nice to have needle, thread and good fabric in my hands. Portable, soothing, contemplative.

Growing a 6PAC

Vogue 8546, brown pin-striped linen

5PAC: Vogue 8839 jacket in ponte knits, TSW Ann's Tank, TSW eDress, both in ponte knit, TSW mimosa pants and shell in cotton/lycra solid brown

6PAC: V8561 skirt in brown striped linen, TSW eDress, V8546 jacket in linen, TSW mimosa pants and shell in cotton/lycra solid Brown, Christine Jonson shell

In a previous post, I indicated that an evolving approach to the 6PAC would be best for me. It has grown two branches, each starting with TSW mimosa fitted pants and a matching shell in a solid brown cotton/lycra canvas fabric. The shell is a much modified version of Cynthia Guffey's simple princess lined dress.

After making the initial brown column, I made the Marcy Tilton jacket (V8839) in ponte knits. Then I was stuck. So I returned to the column and make a brown striped skirt from another Marcy Tilton pattern - 8561. So then I had two 3PACS and and I was stuck.

Finally I grew the gray and brown PAC to 5 pieces:

• fitted brown pants
• fitted brown shell
• jacket in brown and gray ponte knits
• eDress, also in brown and gray ponte knits
• gray ponte knit shell

And the gray and white PAC grew to 6 pieces:

• fitted brown pants
• fitted brown shell
• brown and white striped skirt
• brown and white jacket
• eDress in coordinating poly knit
• shell in same coordinating poly knit

The final test is this - what just hangs in the closet and what is worn? I have a hunch it will be mostly the set with linen. I just love linen.