Tuesday, February 7, 2012

V 1215 Fini!

Back longer than front
Contrast placket & band
After over a month of tweaking a muslin, fiddling with pin tucks, learning shirt components, and really enjoying the whole process, I have finally finished Vogue 1215, a Chado Ralph Rucci design.

Lessons learned:

  • I must start with a smaller size and then accommodate bust and hips. Tweaking the shoulders was not easy.
  • Tunics are not a good look for me now. I shortened this to a more typical shirt length, but the back is still longer than the front. I will wear it for a while and decide if that needs to go. 
  • Twin needles produce a better look than pin tucks when the tucks intersect, and are on the bias, and include a shoulder dart. All that is needed is to tighten the tension on the bobbin thread and stitch from the right side of fabric. 
  • Though I wanted to use flat-fell seams throughout, they distracted from the design on the top sleeve seam, so they were removed. Yep, did the serger thing there. I did that on my set-in sleeves too. And I like it.
  • My automatic buttonholer on my Bernina did not like the collar band. The older button hole foot that requires I pay attention worked just fine.
  • You can edge-stitch after it is finished - just have to weave thread tails back into the garment.
  • Men's collar stands are edge-stitched ALMOST all the way around. There is a 1/4" gap right by the button or buttonhole.
  • I love contrasting fabrics in (slightly) hidden places.
  • There is (almost) always another way to do anything. The pattern calls for finishing the hem and all the seams with bias binding from the fashion fabric. I initially thought I'd do that because I do love binding. But ultimately I chose to roll the hem and finish the side seams in one pass. I used a flat-fell seam on the shoulder.

Finishing the hem and the side seam raw edges

flat-fell shoulder seam, shoulder darts, twin needle treatment


  1. I love all these details. What a beautiful shirt.

  2. What a lovely shirt! I love all the details - which whisper rather than shouting their presence. Wonderful. Well done!

  3. Beautifully done! Thank you for all of the tips - I'll be looking back at them when I get to this shirt :)

  4. Wow, this shirt is beautiful! I love the contrast detailing. You did a gorgeous job on this!

  5. What a beautiful but simple shirt you made. I love everything about it - the details are so subtle but give it such class. Enjoy wearing it.