Friday, January 6, 2012

V1215 Muslin - complete

Even if I never make this pattern up in its entirety, I have learned much from the muslin process. The sleeve finish is something I'll no doubt use with other shirts. There seem to be a number of shirts in my stash that have very plain (and sometimes too full) sleeve hems. This is a clean and lovely alternative.

It has a two-piece sleeve, but only because a one-piece sleeve was slashed down the center following the grain-line. SAs were added of course. This center sleeve seam facilitates the insertion of a vent using a facing that is cut on the bias. Just imagine this in a plaid! The sleeve also has a tuck on either side of the vent, making it narrow just a bit.

I'm still thinking about the length. It is long, and if I use a fine cotton as intended, then it will catch on my lower fluff. On the other hand, it has a likable shirt-tale hem cut nearly up to the waist, and that creates a slimming effect on the side seam.

The tucks on the front and back bodice are fussy, but the style is growing on me. I messed around with them a bit on the right back - see where it pokes out? But now I think I'll just stick with the tucks as drafted.

I still need to insert the collar into the collar band (though the mandarin collar is kind-of cute), and I should probably practice the fly (placket?) technique on this muslin. But I'm getting close to cutting this out of a fine white Italian cotton. Just need to decide about the length so I don't waste all that lovely fabric.

Pam's class is in four weeks, so I have some time to ponder the length.

What a fun pattern!


  1. For some reason, I am having trouble seeing all of the detail on this, except for the wavy seam on the back. Overall, it looks really interesting and the fit looks great! It does seem a bit long, though, proportionally. Can you shorten it a bit while keeping the shirt tail detail? In that second-to-last picture your legs look short, though maybe that's the angle the photo was taken.

    It's going to be a very cool top!

  2. I have had my eye on this pattern - glad you are giving it a go. So far the fit looks great on you. For me, it is a touch long but I have shortish legs and most shirts of this style seem to over whelm my top half. Aaahhh, to have the perfect body....

  3. Thank you for the comments & closeups of the sleeve details - I'm moving this one closer up top of the TODO List now....

    I think it's partly the camera angle, but I agree that it does look long on you. I'm hoping that shortening it won't be too complex, because I'm sure I'll need to do it too! I haven't pulled out the pattern pieces, but it looks like it wouldn't be hard to shorten it but keep the line of the tail (famous last words, eh?)

  4. It's a beautiful shirt Martha. Can it be shortened on the pattern higher enough so it doesn't interfere with the shirt tail look? I agree the detailing is really lovely!

  5. Martha great muslin! Regarding the length, look at the model on the Vogue envelope. She's probably 6' tall and obviously skinny, but in the back view it even looks too long on her. So when you put that length and the deep shirt-tail hem on an average height woman, the shirt wears you rather than you wearing the shirt. I suggest pinning your muslin up to see where that line is. I'm 5'5" and dramatic shirt-tail hems aren't particularly flattering on me so I avoid them. Maybe a less dipped hem would help as well.

  6. Thanks to all for the helpful suggestions and comments. When I make this in February, I will be cutting it closer to a standard shirt length, curving the new hem line to provide some reference point for the curved tucks, but avoiding the exaggerated tail in the back DH mentioned.