coutures anglaises

So I planned to finish this as my last post of 2024. Oops.

Thank goodness for social media, right? Well, not always. But today I learned that the French call French seams "coutures anglaises." I think that is just lovely - reciprocal appreciation for a beautiful technique. But this post has nothing to do with clothing construction. No, this post is about two challenges that I just finished. They were great fun and I garnered lots of inspiration from each. And they were free!

Kathryn Chambers' Weekly Stitch Journal

This challenge began in December of 2023. Kathryn, or k3n, has a popular channel on Youtube called k3n clothtales. In December she posted some loose instructions for constructing a paper journal that would become the vessel for weekly hand-stitched little pieces of fiber art. Then every Monday, k3n published a video with a theme and some easy techniques. 

My journal contains 54 pages for some reason. I skipped one page because it was thick with paint. And now I have one page left. Luckily 2024 has 53 Mondays. k3n will publish something on this last Monday in December, but she has promised (only) a flip-through of her stitch journal. 

I expect it will inspire something for my final page. This weekly journal has already influence how I will make fiber art in the future.

I'll post some of my favorite weeks below:

January: Light and Dark

February, obviously

April, eclipse-inspired

Kawandi-inspired in March

kintsugi-inspired

Still crazy, after all these years

The center of this mandala is shiny paper that is reflecting the trees - not actually green

reverse applique - a personal fave technique

imitating nature

Maya Angelou inspiration

Jane Dunnewold - Complex Compositions

This series occurred fairly early in the year and was difficult for me. I still learned a ton, but have few remaining pieces that sing to me. Many who were enrolled had been in a previous class where they had printed lots of paper with acrylic paints - lots of interesting techniques. Anyway they had lots of papers to start with. I did not and so spent my time printing papers. It was fun and I've incorporated the papers into other projects like bookbinding.

Jane Dunnewold - Print Perfection

This was wonderful! We learned how to print on fabric using thickened dyes. I know I'll return to this again and again. Unlike printing fabric with fabric paint, printing with dyes leaves the soft had of the fabric, and so it will make lovely garments. Again I learned a great deal and hope my notes left me with enough breadcrumbs to avoid mistakes I have already learned from!

12mm silk printed with stencils, painting with a brush

Silk noil generates more muted prints, here via one silk screen, and brush strokes

Cotton printed with stencils and a stamp

Cotton printed using a cool technique invented by Jane

Silk charmeuse scarf printed with screens and stencils, then overpainted.

Jane Dunnewold and Zenna James - Presence in Practice

This challenge was a smaller undertaking but still time-consuming and great fun. This mother-daughter team issued a daily challenge for 12 days from Dec 10 until Dec 21. Their challenges came with short audio meditations (so worthwhile!), a place to share with other participants, a theme for each day, and then a list of suggested materials. 

I want to do more tone-on-tone stitching in 2025.

I discovered gell printing in 2024 - such instant gratification

Day 12: In 2024 I found out that I enjoy stitching on paper.

Since it was 12 consecutive days, and we did a little bit of holiday travel right in the middle, I was slow to finish. I made day 12 after the challenge was over, and I think it may be my favorite. 

I was pushed in some new directions with this challenge, as neither Jane nor Zenna provided any examples of the daily pieces. I actually liked that even more. I used supplies I have on hand and had a great sense of satisfaction and reflection upon completion of each 8" x 8" piece.

2025 - Diamond Jubilee for me

There are so many ideas floating in my imagination and an embarassment of great supplies for making. I'll be carving out lots of time for making. Daily, or weekly, or monthly challenges? Clothes? Art? Journals? And new year's resolutions are futile for me. I will continue to enjoy responding to others' inspiration with my own twist. 

Wishing you happy making in the coming year!

November - chocked full of making stuff

But almost no sewing.

I did repair some garments and made one pair of pants using the Sewing Workshop's Plaza pants pattern. There is not much to show with pants, especially since I prefer elastic waisted pants to all others. 

This is a tried 'n' true pattern for pants. I often make them as I did here, omitting the front pleats, but keeping the front vertical seam. The front vertical seam is simply a design line without the pleat. On occasion, I have made them without the front seam at all, much like what Louise Cutting calls "one seam pants." 

I used an interesting fabric. It is 100% cotton, medium weight with pretty good drape. Due to the unusual weave, it reads brown & black on one side, and light gray on the other. 

I bought it several years ago while visiting San Francisco. I visited Bretex fabrics, still quite a fabulous old-style fabric store, though much smaller than it was decades ago. And I had to buy this cool fabric.

I kept this piece in stash quite a long time because I wanted to somehow take advantage of the two distinct sides. But the brown/black side is my favorite and a much better color for me. If I had that light gray up near my face, I would definitely look near death. So, it became much-needed brown pants.

It made up nicely and I added some patch pockets. Maybe I can get a picture of me wearing it tomorrow and I'll slip it in here. 

Meanwhile I have been making stuff:

I continue my weekly slow stitch project with k3n clothtales on YouTube. My stitch journal is quite fat now. In a few weeks, I'll finish it with the last Monday of 2024. It's been a fun serial project. I may need to come up with something similar for 2025. These are such satisfying little projects.

This is kantha-inspired

This one was made without sight by wearing a blindfold. Note the loops.

This one is inspired by Bonnie Sennott's wrinkle embrodery

This one is cloth gathering, not yet finished.

And I have been working on another Jane Dunnewold online course, this one called Print Perfection.

Like all previous online classes with Jane, it involves lots of time and lots of fun. It started mid-October and we have our final live Q&A on Dec 3.  As in her other online classes, the material is presented in multiple formats: powerpoint with voice over, video demonstration of each process, printable handouts with details, and live Q&A's. There is also an online community where all of the students may post pictures and descriptions of experiences. There is so much inspiration there!

In print perfection, we have learned how to print fabric with thickened dyes. And it has been my favorite class ever!

I have worked my way through the 6 sessions she provided but still have tons of ideas for future experimentation. And, of course, I'll want to make something with some of the pieces.

This class combined nicely with what I learned in her online class concerning dyeing fabric with procion dyes. I used those notes to overdye some of my samples that I printed.

I have a little studio set up in my garage. I could happily work out there printing fabric many hours a day. The added bonus is that, once a piece is printed, it needs to *batch* for 24 hours. Then there is the *big reveal.* I so enjoy projects like that.

Even my drop cloths have potential for making something.

So I will be sewing again soon!

Design Outside the Lines 2024

I'm feeling grateful and creative, satiated with ideas to try in my sewing room. Yes, I just returned from Diane Ericson's Design Outside the Lines retreat in Taos, New Mexico. This year she invited Paula Kavorik, another stellar and generous textile art teacher. And, did we ever have fun!?!

First, there is Taos, a small town that seems to remain a small town decade after decade. My earliest memories of Taos are skiing with my husband and young children and having breakfast at Michael's. But I am fairly certain my family of origin camped there back in the 50s or 60s. Michael's is still there but I did not have an opportunity to eat there because I was staying at the magical Mabel Dodge Luhan retreat center where breakfast takes center stage.

Mabel Dodge Luhan was a colorful person and a great supporter of the arts. The property continues to this day to have that vibe. It invites creatives and travelers from near and far. This year, in addition to the dozen or so of us with Diane, a group of yogis were passing through following their own retreat. They sang to us each morning before breakfast, not because they are good at singing, but because singing makes them feel good. I am quoting their leader. Truthfully, their voices were lovely. And I definitely felt better for having heard them. 

While we were with them, Hurricane Helene ripped through their home in Ashville NC so their singing was mixed with fear, tears, and still hope. We sent them home with traveling mercies and prayers for their loved ones.

While in the workshop, I focused on Diane's River Tunic pattern. I had made one in a light weight denim, which I like, but I wanted to make another one while there and ask Diane to guide me in new directions with it. She sees it as a blank canvas. After nips, tucks, and finishing, I am pleased with the result and ready to try something more myself.

I made her signature overlap at the neckline, in both the front and the back. It adds interest, brings in the neckline, and produces an interesting pleat.

By folding up the hem in the front, a sweet little pocket was formed. We folded up the back hem to balance the overall silhouette.

A few more tucks were added to the back to add a little shaping, and now, I like it quite a lot.

The fabric came from a unique shop in Taos named Common Thread. They carry household linens, some yardage from India and other places, some cool but plain linen garments, and a plethora of gorgeous scarves. I have a weakness for buying scarves when I travel. Somehow I resisted that.

The household linens are great for garments. Diane always brings some that she has made with their household linens - always artful and inspiring.

I bought the green fabric last year at Common Threads and cut out a basic River Tunic right before coming to DOL this year. It was ideal for this project with Diane because the two sides are identical. 

This year I bought another fabulous piece at Common Thread that will become something and show up in this blog sooner or later. 

Fun fact - my iPhone camera labels this *artwork.*

Paula Kavorik brought something new and wonderful to this year's DOL! She is an artist who draws with her sewing machine. She is also imaginative and a truly gifted, seasoned teacher. If you ever have a chance to study with her, do not miss that opportunity! In the meantime, follow her on IG as yellowbrickroad.

Sometimes I get have to make *something.*

I am sort of addicted to Paula's process right now. I have little control but I am intrigued by what can happen if I just relax and gently move the fabric forward and backward, as well as to the left and to the right. Paula's mantra is "maintain the horizon." It is tempting to move turn the fabric around and around, but I'm gradually seeing the benefit of maintaining the horizon.

Paula encourages the development of this skill with drawing exercises. I do love those and play around with that every evening while watching the news. So satisfying. My eye-hand control with the sewing machine is still a far cry from my eye-hand control with a pen and paper, but practice makes progress. And that is good enough.

Drawing:

Now I am feelling the call of my sewing room.