Liberty Shirt Hacks

The Liberty Shirt is one of the most popular patterns ever published by the Sewing Workshop. I have noticed that other pattern companies have similar styles, but the one from TSW is my favorite.

When it was first published, I made this one.

Most of the fabric is a fine Japanese cotton that is printed to look as if it had been pieced. The back shows the original fabric best. It is really one piece of fabric.

As usual I failed to purchase enough fabric for the shirt, so I used solid gray silk dupioni for one sleeve, as well as the left front. I also added tiny burnt orange piping to highlight the wonderful front seams. There are no side seams - the back piece wraps around to the front, creating angled seams where it is sewn to each front. Lastly I spaced my buttons in pairs. Otherwise, I made no changes to it. I loved making it and have worn it quite a lot. 

My next one was made in this gorgeous silk shantung. Since it is fancy fabric, I do not wear it as much, but I love the look of it for a dressy occasion, maybe with black silk pants. I made no changes to this one - instead I let the cool design and the striking solid colored fabric shine.

The next time I made it, I used a cotton shirting, cross-dyed in black and white, so it reads gray. This fabric was not fun to sew, as I recall. I behaved like a silk in preserving all areas where I needed to unpick something. And it wrinkles like crazy. I replaced the usual collar with one from TSW's Now and Zen shirt pattern. I used the double collar.

I have made a white version more than once, each with slightly different details. The one below is made in a pretty textured cotton. I created a stand collar to replace the usual one in the pattern.

Evidently I made one in this linen knit. I say, evidently, because I have forgotten all about it. It looks great on the dress form, but I do not like to wear linen knits. They tend to be flimsy and cling to every bump and bubble on my torso. So I expect I gave it away pretty soon after completing it. The significant change in this one was to convert it from a button up top to a pull over. It is such a wonderful color.

The second white shirting version is below. Based on a tutorial from Linda Lee, I used the neckline from the MixIt shirt, omitted the collar, and made the sleeves 3/4 length. It is not visible in the picture, but I added one chest pocket.

My next version was a sweater knit pull-over. I really like this one. The fabric is what Linda Lee calls boucle. It is a wool/rayon blend and a little scratchy. But I always wear it over something else. Other than making it as a pull-over, I made no other changes. I accented those cool front seams with hand-stitch.

My next version was another pull-over, this time in a silk piece with a little lycra. I used black binding to finish the neck and sleeve hems. And I added black piping to the front seams.

And now, here is my latest.

The fabric is fine Japanese cotton from Nani Iro. It is a double weave and super soft. I bought it on a recent trip to NC. My grandson lives there. The fabulous Mulberry Silks and Fine Fabrics is nearby and a must-see for me.

I accented it with a piece of tana lawn that looks sort-of like Liberty of London fabric. I bought it at the local shop, Gail K, and so I do not really know. The piece was only 36" wide, so I suspect it is not Liberty of London. I have enjoyed using it as an accent on various pieces.

The neckline finish is a variation on the Egyptian shirt pattern from Folkwear. It is a shaped, reversed facing. I also used the tana lawn as a flat piping in the forward seams, as well as for sleeve hem facings.

This fabric has a sweet selvedge. So I hand-stitched that down the back to create a little bit of interest there.

I have already enjoyed wearing this. The Nani Iro fabric is so soft, but the flip side is that it sticks to my high hip fluff. That's OK.

Now I am thinking about my next Liberty hack. I've seen vest versions posted online. And I have a piece of nice fine whale corduroy that would be perfect. 

I suppose there might even be a dress variation left. Or a longish duster. Or. Or. Or.

Remember the Plaza Jacket?

Do you remember the Plaza pattern from the Sewing Workshop? I made the pants over and over again, with and without the front pleat. They are essentially the same as One Seam Pants from Cutting Line Designs.

I made the jacket just once. I have kept it all these years and worn only occasionally. But I do love the fabric which is a tapestry-type weave, probably cotton, something I bought in the fashion district of NYC back in the early 90's. 

Stash was expanded when I visited Charleston SC recently. There is a sweet fabric shop called Five Eighth Seams there. If you are ever looking for an amazing supply of 100% cotton gingham, go there - every imaginable color and light weight corduroy to match. I want more of that!

But I also found this glorious piece of rayon challis (and a yummy Marcia Derse cotton you'll see on my blog soon). These contain so many colors that make my heart sing. I could not wait to sew the rayon challis up. 

The Plaza jacket is charming, I think. Very, very wide. Short chunky sleeves. Almost a shrug length. I'm thinking it would make a practical throw for summer air conditioning as is, right out of the pattern envelope.

For this one, I lengthened it 15" and created deep hems to add some weight. I also reduced the width of it by about 4 inches total. The pattern pieces are essentially rectangular so it was easy to make these two changes.

Rayon challis is icky to sew. I just have to be honest here. I do love the drape and the airy feel but it takes patience, I think. As you probably know, it is man-made but not synthetic since it comes from wood and other plants. Invented in the late 19th century, it was initially marketed as synthetic silk. The chemical process was improved in the mid-twentieth century. Processes for creating rayon include viscose, lyocell, and modal, as I understand it. And all are nasty for the environment.

Back to icky. I love to iron with lots of steam. Rayon becomes very unstable when steamed. Heck, it's pretty unstable just sitting on the cutting table. So a simple garment is essential, I think.

I used some flat-felled seams but mostly I serged it. I probably should have stayed with the flat-felled seams, to be honest. I became enamored of the selvedge and so used it for one front band and the sleeve hems. That too caused me a bit of grief.

I'll enjoy this little topper. I'll use it as a swimsuit cover up should the occasion arise. It will be great for air-conditioned restaurants. I love these rich colors. 

 

Look at it with this icy pink silk noil! Ah, on the next project.

Mix It Top, again

And again and again. This is probably the most often reproduced one in my collection - the Mix It Top from the Sewing Workshop. The pattern envelope contains the shirt, the top and the tank. I've made the other two, but the top is my all-time favorite.

After my last sewing fiasco, I was ready for some meditative sewing and some color. This project was just right.

Each time I make the Mix It Top, I adjust it. This time I altered for a forward shoulder and straightened the shoulder seam line. The original seam line is a gentle S curve, something I've not seen in any of their other patterns. With the forward shoulder change, I just straightened it out.

I measured the circumference of the sleeve cap and the armscye. This led to a 3/4 inch reduction in the sleeve cap for a smoother finish.

I also included a back seam that helps with a slight curve in my upper back. Oh, the wages of age - always need a few more tweaks in my older patterns.

That said, this was pure zen sewing. The fabric is a luscious green silk dupion that I washed once. I noticed that there is no give in either length-wise or cross-wise grains, so I cut the pieces cross-wise. This way, the slight linear slub runs up and down. I may send it to the dry cleaners now to keep the color rich. I just love this color!

As usual I was short of fabric and so used a piece of plaid silk taffeta from stash for facing the neckline, the sleeves and the hem. The neckline is a current favorite of mine, inspired by the Egyptian shirt from Folkwear.  Often when I make this modification, I turn the facing to the outside. This time, I turned the facing to the inside so that the facing shape is only visible in the top-stitching that holds it in place.

That plaid is way too wild for a stand-alone piece, but I really like it peaking out from the edges of this top.

It was lovely to sew and when I put it on, it fit. Perfectly, I think. I will of course make more Mix It Tops. It's just right for upcoming hot weather, especially in cotton.

This makes me happy.

Corduroy

Corduroy: corde du roi, fabric of the king, dating back to the 18th century.

pure comfort

To me it is like comfort food. It is the fabric I reach for when the weather turns cold.

And brown corduroy? It doesn't get any better than that.

The back is longer than the front.

Louise Cutting's latest pattern - Just My Style - arrived in my mail box yesterday and I like it. I did not make this yesterday though. Louise shared proofs with me when I attended the Ann Williamson workshop that Louise hosted in October. There were no instructions, just pattern pieces.

great shoulder

Even without the instructions, it was a fun make. And it is different from her other pull-over tops.

The armscye is low like many of her drop-shouldered patterns. The key difference is that the shoulder seam sits right at the shoulder. I really like this and find it more flattering than a drop shoulder.

The theme is pockets, and who doesn't love a few cool pockets? View A calls for one large pocket on the lower portion of the front, and two overlapping smaller pockets in the chest area. I decided to put my second small pocket on the opposite sleeve, rather than overlapping the two. That overlapping look is quite charming when different fabrics are used. My goal was a simple shirt that I could wear with almost anything.

The pattern calls for a self-fabric bias trim at the neckline. Even though my fabric is baby whale corduroy, I didn't want to make binding with it. Instead I used a remnant of cotton batik on the neckline and to create cuffs on the sleeves.

And of course, I added a little sashiko. The neckline is outlined and the cuffs are sewn down with the sashiko stitch. Or kantha stitch. Or running stitch. This reminds me that I am still dreaming about making a garment quilted with this stitch, kantha-style. That will be a long-term project, not a quick make like this.

cuffed

I think that this pattern may become a TNT. And I look forward to making it again with all of the excellent instructions that are in the CLD patterns. Oh, and view B is completely different. Another two-fer from Louise!