A Few Finishes

I've been away from my work bench quite a lot lately. When that happens, I like to tidy things up and this means finishing UFOs. There is something about finishing and liking the result that gives me inspiration for my next project.

In one case, I'm running in circles. I made this black linen Urban Tunic as a dress a couple of years ago. First I wore it as a jumper in order to avoid bare arms. Adding that white tee shirt seemed to help.

The following year I thought that adding sleeves would magically convert it into my favorite LBD.

Nope. When I wore it, I felt like a big black blob. So I removed said sleeves and I'm back to where I started. It's hot here so maybe my vanity over my floppy arms will lose out to the practicality of a sleeveless dress.

Or maybe I need to pull out that white tee shirt again. Or cut it off and make it a tunic. Or...

Go figure.

My second finish is a TnT pattern made up in textured cotton shirting in black. It's my much-altered version of the MixIt Top from the Sewing Workshop. I've made so many changes to it that I feel like it's almost my design!

It has a shaped facing that is stitched in place, creating a little neckline styling. This means it slips over my head.

I always enjoy pulling out remnants from other projects and incorporating them into new projects. In this case, I used a remnant of fabulous Japanese cotton. I do not get how it is woven but it has a different design on each side. And it is not printed. I don't get it but I love it.

One side of the Japanese piece reads striped, the other reads as little groups of hash-marks (cut on the bias here)

I used the bias version to finish the lower hem. I finished the sleeves with simple cuffs. I kind of like it with my green linen Fit for Art Eureka pants.

My favorite finish is this 17x22 inch art quilt. It makes me inordinately happy.

I started it in a class with Cindy Grisdela. I've long admired her work and was so happy to take classes from her. We brought our own fabrics and created improv designs informed by her aesthetic.

Cindy uses quilt cottons but my fabrics are from my stash - so silk, linen, and cotton. Some of them are cross-dyed. The colors change depending upon the light.

I finished the edges with a facing. It's frame-less and (I hope) more art than quilt. I cut a piece of burnt orange radiance (silk and cotton sateen) to the exact size of my squared-up quilt. Then I sewed them right sides together. I made a slit in the back, trimmed the corners and turned it right side out. Then I free-form cut the edges of the facing for a fun design in the back. The edges were turned under and stitched like hand applique.

I also took a free motion quilting class from Cindy. I love her beautiful machine quilting. But after I finished the piecing on mine, I felt a powerful need to hand quilt it. I used a 2-ply, 12 weight cotton thread from Aurofil. Now I see why people rave about Aurofil. Even after many hours of stitching, I was sad to finish. I have some travel coming up quickly. I think I need another project with hand-quilting, really, sashiko.

The blues

Sew blue. Mini layers.

This quilt has a conventional side and a boro side. You can see parts of the boro side that is made up of some fabrics that I dyed in an indigo class with Rowland Ricketts at Arrowmont several years ago. I'm in the process of hand-quilting it with size 12 pearl cotton thread, my favorite. The pattern mostly follows the conventional side, with one nod to the moon-shaped resist on one of the indigo pieces (boro side).

the more conventional side before quilting

I am amazed at how meditative this has been. That is probably a response to my full week of hand-sewing at Arrowmont this year with Jody Alexander. I can hardly bear to do anything but stitch on this. It's also a healing process during an upside-down week.

It's been feeling a lot like summer here, as it should, since we just passed the summer solstice. I wanted loose clothing and imagined this until I finally made it up.

It is the Urban tunic from Indygo Junction, again lengthened three inches so that I can wear it as a dress, probably more often than not with leggings or jeans underneath. I guess that defeats the purpose of loose clothing though.

The fabric is a medium weight linen that was delightful to cut, press, sew. I did goof one part. I really should have added interfacing to the pocket openings. I can always unsew and correct that.

I have a blue jacket cut out and ready to puzzle through. It is the All About Details pattern, view B, from Cutting Line Designs. I will likely enjoy that process a great deal. It is full of Issey Miyake details. The CLD patterns almost always include a few interesting details to try, but with the Miyake inspiration, this one promises to be a particularly good puzzler.

So I guess I'll continue to sew the blues for now.

MMM Day 27

oday I spent a fun morning with sewing pals at City-wide Couture (part of ASG Atlanta). I wore my latest make - the urban tunic from Indygo Junction. The fabric is black linen. Modifications included lengthning, adjusting the bust dart, and bias binding in place of armscye facings.

I want to find time to make this again - it is so easy to make and wear.

Indygo Junction Urban Tunic

This is a tunic I finished before I left for my trip to Paris. I even wore it once to dinner. Now I finally have time to blog about it.

I love it.

The Urban Tunic from Indygo Junction first came to my attention at Camp Runamuck, where Theresa discusses weaving, sewing, and the state of the union. I loved her versions and now believe I'll be making various versions of it too.

I made a partial toile (muslin) before cutting into my black linen. Much was revealed. I could see that I needed to lower the bust point about an inch, add a bit for hip room, and carefully ease in some fullness in the front armscye where gaposis was beginning. I also added 3 inches to the length so that it would be a dress, rather than a tunic. 

I chose the view with the cowl neckline. I like this in principle but in practice it is a little low for my comfort. I wore it last night with a necklace and that helped a bit.

I love the pockets. They are the simple in-seam style with little bulk because the pocket is stitched to the dress. I prefer this over a loose pocket with extra floppy bulk right where I don't want it. 

I finished the armscye with bias binding made from the black linen. It's a finish that appeals to me more than facings, at least in this case.

The additional 3 inches I added to the length did make this long enough to be considered a dress. Just. I added another bias strip of the linen to the hemline using a 1/4 inch seam allowance. Then I pressed it to the wrong side and top-stitched three times to secure it. I left the edge of the bias raw on the inside of the hem to avoid a lump.

I'd like to make another Urban Tunic soon, perhaps with the boat neck. That is the neckline used in my toile and it is just right. It might be that if I make this in a lighter color, I'll be brave enough to wear it with naked legs. My legs are so pale, it would almost have to be a white dress. We'll see.

In sum, I highly recommend this pattern and expect to be making more as tunics and, maybe, dresses. You know how it is with dresses. They are not the first item I grab when I'm getting dressed in the morning. 

MMM Day 8

Today is chocked full of errands. It's a little chilly but will probably warm up shortly. So I'm running out the door in this ensemble:

Vest:

This is the Peony pattern from the Sewing Workshop. Many years ago it was issued in a pattern with another vest, Poppy. Poppy was perhaps the more interesting but the least wearable. Peony is now a download-only pattern. It is composed of such simple shapes with lots of opportunity for variations. I've made it many times.

This one is in medium-weight denim. It started out quite plain and I took it with me on trips, adding the seed-stitch as I had time. The seed-stitch is used to create negative space for some creatures. It's finished now, I think. I added a simple patch pocket and a simple collar to the original design.

Shirt:

You cannot see it clearly but it's a a long-sleeved shirt with no collar and a front placket with a single button. It is a great layering piece. The pattern is from Cutting Line Designs Artist In Motion, a pattern containing this shirt and a vest. I got to name it for Louise, so that was fun. The fabric reads like a light-weight denim but it's a cross-dyed cotton that I embellished with sashiko.

Pants:

These are, once again, Helix pants (Sewing Workshop) in navy ponte from Gail K in Atlanta. It must be a ponte roma because it is softer like the one often labeled Sophia. It tends to grow over time and I've shortened them more than once. They are wonderfully comfortable.

Meanwhile when I have time from errands, I doing some pattern work on a new-to-me pattern, the Urban Tunic from Indygo Junction.

I made a toile/muslin for the upper body and learned a great deal. Now I just have to find time to cut it out!

I made just the upper portion and cut off the seam allowances on the neckline and armholes. The bust darts must be lowered an inch. The armhole needs a bit more fabric about 3/4 of the way down on the front piece, plus it'll need some of Marcy Tilton's stay-stitch-plus to avoid gap-osis there. I am adding 3 inches to the length in hopes it can be a summer dress instead of a tunic. I added 1/4 inch to back SA to allow for upper back curve and added about 1/2 inch to hips. Here's hoping it all works!