Splice Top

This is the latest top pattern from the Sewing Workshop (TSW). But I've had it and used it for a few years now. While attending Sew Kansas some years ago, I had a chance to try on their sample. Then I traced the pattern pieces and brought them home.

the sample I tried on at Sew Kansas

After that, I made it twice - once with a nubby medium weight cotton. I forgot about the uneven hems and ended up chopping off the excess in this first one - I just had pattern tissue and no instructions. I love this shirt. I even removed the white stitching and over-dyed it at one point because the black had faded so much.

2016

Since the black one was so good, I made a second one almost right away, this time out of a remnant of China silk. This was not so successful. I did something cludgie in order to make the hems uneven. I added black piping to show off the side panels. But I haven't worn it much. I think it's too fussy for me.

Then I misplaced the pattern tissue. Each time I saw Linda Lee, I pestered sweetly asked her when they were going to publish this. It's just such a good wardrobe builder. They finally published it as a PDF a few weeks ago - hooray and thanks!

I like the loose overall shape, bateau neckline, and 3/4 length sleeves. It has one distinctive feature - the side panels that are shorter than the front and back pieces. But it's just so good.

This is the first one I've made with the instructions. The instructions are not critical, except for that uneven hem. Their directions yield a lovely finished hem and side seams. And that makes me happy!

The fabric is a Brussels washer fabric (linen and rayon) from Craft South. It is a shot weave with dark blue in one direction and turquoise in the other direction. I love the color! It is a much softer, lighter Brussels washer than I've sewn, just right for this top.

top-stitching on the 3/4 length sleeves

Initially I cut out the side panels and the facing in light green linen. I decided against this embellishment.

Yep, it is plain but I have a hunch I'll be reaching for it quite a lot.

And I have my next one planned already. This pattern is a blank canvas. There are so many opportunities for variations and fun. Maybe I need some new fabric...

Sew Kansas 2016 Part II

Day 2 of this year's Sew Kansas involved some actual sewing on my part.

My Valencia pants are clearly too long. More tweaking needed. I'm wearing it with a Zona sample from TSW collection. It has been lengthened and sewn in several different denims. I really like the styling on the Zona and would not have thought about lengthening it into a jacket. 

It is interesting to see how different people manage the time. Some people sew constantly. One friend made 3 pairs of pants, 2 tops and then she cut out a jacket. I like to wander some, make notes, take pictures, and sew a little.

My approach generated one pair of Valencia pants and a lot of inspiration/information. The fabric is a cross-dyed gray linen. It's that signature flat front found in the Plaza, Urban and Trio pants. The Valencia is the most basic of those four pants patterns. Not much to show for 3 days, eh?

I'm back home and I still need to tweak the length a bit.

But I had fun trying things on and taking pictures to extend the inspiration/information plunge once home.

This is an example of something that was fun to try on. This is a sample of the Tosca dress. It does not do much for me. Good to know.

One of my favorite activities at Sew Kansas is exploration of their basement. They store *vintage* Sewing Workshop garments here.

There are an assortment of details in these older garments that are always appealing to me.

Inventor Shirt

Joplin Pullover

San Diego jacket

Mix It shirt as a vest

And here is a gorgeous version of the Tremont jacket by Karen Tornow. The chunks of color on the front panel, sleeves and elsewhere are a single layer of fabric. All fabrics are boiled wool. This means there is no need to finish the edges, reducing bulk. These colors are full of cheer.

Please note that except for the boring gray pants in the first picture, these are samples from the Sewing Workshop, NOT my work. But I can dream.

Sew Kansas 2016 Part I

I am just about to depart Topeka for home, having completed a 3 day workshop, Sew Kansas, followed by a one day seminar on the Alabama Chanin lifestyle and techniques.

Tops: MixIt shirt, Future shirt pattern, Plaza vest, Barcelona top, Siena top (below), Tremont Jacket

This is the second Sew Kansas for me - the first was in 2015.  Sew Kansas is a 3 day workshop taught by Linda Lee of The Sewing Workshop. It takes place in her shop in Topeka KS.

This is a version of the San Diego jacket, an older TSW pattern.

Good lighting. Great company. Fun times. Delicious food as needed. Individual help. And wonderful master classes taught by Linda Lee several times a day. Each of us chose what and when to work on sewing projects.

Here is the vintage San Diego on me.

Linda Lee is an experienced and accomplished interior designer and it certainly shows in the design and layout of her shop. One large room contains the classroom studio with Bernina sewing machines, samples of each current pattern in multiple sizes, the patterns, notions, fabrics and work stations for each of the 4 employees. It seems like a lot for one room, but it is arranged artfully and efficiently.

And here is a new version of the San Diego. Cool, eh?

Monique, one of the students, modeled her new San Diego. It is still being tweaked but will also include a cute tunic version. Can you see the interesting hem line?

It is always exciting to see what is in the works. I like the older version of the San Diego but I cannot wait for the new version to come out.

Sew Kansas - What I Made

Helix pants in red ponte

My *makes* at Sew Kansas were fun and simple. I find that during such an intensive sewing experience, I become overwhelmed and mistakes (many) follow. So I knew to aim low. This eliminates some stress and makes me more open to learning.

• The first day I made a pair of Helix pants in black ponte knit. (sorry, no pix of black)
• The second day I browsed.  And shopped. And enjoyed.  
• The third day I made a simple knit top - the Eureka. I used three rayon jersey fabrics for it.

Each day began with a lecture/demo by Linda. And throughout the days, we took breaks for short demos as well as private consultations with Linda, Kathy and Erin. Linda also allowed us to trace off a future pattern - the Tremont jacket. It is a beautiful style and I cannot wait to make it.

Helix Pants:

I had seen this pattern on various people and was fairly certain I would like it. It is a pull-on pant that requires a knit fabric with at least 25% stretch. Although it has elastic at the waist, the overall effect is completely smooth. This is achieved with darts in the front and back, as well as the waistband treatment.

Linda had all the sizes made up, so I was able to try on *my* size and then Linda told me how to alter it for a great fit. I fixed the pattern tissue and cut out my first pair in black. This ponte is one of those nice beefy stable knits mostly rayon, and no polyester. Perfect for these pants. I also bought red ponte knit from Linda Lee, but decided to wait to make the 2nd pair at home.

Once home I cut out and made the red pair. During the workshop I asked Linda if she would ever make (and wear) a pair of red pants. She responded "Of course!" OK so I'm in love with these red pants.

Easy casual finish.

The Helix pattern also has an interesting Tee, too hot for now.

The Eureka Top:

OK, true confession. When this came out, I was underwhelmed. But I had a green-eggs-and-ham moment and now I am quite fond of it. Like the helix pants, it is a great basic. It is styled with cuffs tacked up, but I like it better with the cuffs down. I may lengthen and use it as a layering piece during cooler weather. For now, it is just right. Yes, I like the Eureka top.

The directions for the neckline create a nice finish, I think. 

Now I know to use my walking foot with jerseys. This stops fabric creep that dashes any hope for matched stripes at the seams. It also makes it easier to machine stitch a hem without rippling.

This top does not require fabric with any stretch so I will likely make it in a woven fabric next.

Now Sewing:

My current project is a very old Sewing Workshop pattern - the Spring St pattern. You may remember it. It has a flat open collar with key holes, as well as an easy and interesting fold over closure at the wrist. The shoulders are a little dropped so I'm trying to adjust that a bit.

So what's going on in your sewing room? 

Sew Kansas 2015

Nirvana for a fan like me. 

NOT made by me! This is a piece made with silk kimono pieces by Kathy at TSW. I photographed it for inspiration. 

Three days with Linda Lee of the Sewing Workshop in her shop in Topeka. The Mother Ship. 

A huge room full of TSW pieces from the past. A museum, really. Starting with the earliest pieces. Still beautiful. Still current. 

Gorgeous fabrics, buttons and everything you would ever want surrounded the 10 of us as we created, learned and chatted. 

Linda and her associates, Kathy and Erin were their to guide, teach, and of course inspire. Each day was a three woman fashion show in situ. 

All the pieces in the current line were available not only to touch and examine but also to try on in each size. So lots of great pattern fitting was happening too. 

I'm still buzzing. 

Left to right: Nancy, Linda, me. 

My sweet sweet sister in law took the class with me. Here we are, a little rumpled from a full day of sewing. Linda invited us to her home for dinner one night. Just as beautiful as you would imagine. And the evening was filled with good food and great women. 

More to come...