made my heart sing

Of course, if you've ever read my blog, you know how much I love fabrics -  textures, natural, especially linen. Occasionally I spot a piece that makes my heart beat just a little faster. Has that ever happened to you?

Recently I was shopping at Five Eighths fabric shop in Charleston SC, as I often do when visiting DD. They straddle the themes of quilting and garment making, with a strong focus on cotton. On this occasion, I had already selected my fabrics and they had been cut for me when I took one last look around.

There in the (mostly) quilting cottons, I spotted this beauty by Marcia Derse. I have made garments with her cotton designs before and knew it would work for a garment. Plus it was just so very gorgeous, I had to have it.

After checking out, I told her not to worry about putting that one in my bag - I planned to admire and pet it on the way home. 

After much consideration, I decided I would love an Esme dress, one of the patterns in Lotta Jansdotter's book Everyday Style. I had made it as a top and wear it all the time. So I was pretty sure I would love it as a dress.

I added inseam pockets which I love.

I guessed at the length and it was a little short, so I made bias facings for the hem. Bias binding on the neckline and a simple turned-up hem on the sleeves finished it off.

Of course, I added a little something on the back neckline - this time a loop from a bias tube.

I am still crazy about this fabric. 

Remember the Plaza Jacket?

Do you remember the Plaza pattern from the Sewing Workshop? I made the pants over and over again, with and without the front pleat. They are essentially the same as One Seam Pants from Cutting Line Designs.

I made the jacket just once. I have kept it all these years and worn only occasionally. But I do love the fabric which is a tapestry-type weave, probably cotton, something I bought in the fashion district of NYC back in the early 90's. 

Stash was expanded when I visited Charleston SC recently. There is a sweet fabric shop called Five Eighth Seams there. If you are ever looking for an amazing supply of 100% cotton gingham, go there - every imaginable color and light weight corduroy to match. I want more of that!

But I also found this glorious piece of rayon challis (and a yummy Marcia Derse cotton you'll see on my blog soon). These contain so many colors that make my heart sing. I could not wait to sew the rayon challis up. 

The Plaza jacket is charming, I think. Very, very wide. Short chunky sleeves. Almost a shrug length. I'm thinking it would make a practical throw for summer air conditioning as is, right out of the pattern envelope.

For this one, I lengthened it 15" and created deep hems to add some weight. I also reduced the width of it by about 4 inches total. The pattern pieces are essentially rectangular so it was easy to make these two changes.

Rayon challis is icky to sew. I just have to be honest here. I do love the drape and the airy feel but it takes patience, I think. As you probably know, it is man-made but not synthetic since it comes from wood and other plants. Invented in the late 19th century, it was initially marketed as synthetic silk. The chemical process was improved in the mid-twentieth century. Processes for creating rayon include viscose, lyocell, and modal, as I understand it. And all are nasty for the environment.

Back to icky. I love to iron with lots of steam. Rayon becomes very unstable when steamed. Heck, it's pretty unstable just sitting on the cutting table. So a simple garment is essential, I think.

I used some flat-felled seams but mostly I serged it. I probably should have stayed with the flat-felled seams, to be honest. I became enamored of the selvedge and so used it for one front band and the sleeve hems. That too caused me a bit of grief.

I'll enjoy this little topper. I'll use it as a swimsuit cover up should the occasion arise. It will be great for air-conditioned restaurants. I love these rich colors. 

 

Look at it with this icy pink silk noil! Ah, on the next project.