Showing posts with label huipil. Show all posts
Showing posts with label huipil. Show all posts

Friday, August 3, 2018

Huipil

Huipil - #inspiredbyFrida #dresslikeFridaSAL
Huipilthe most common traditional garment worn by indigenous women from central Mexico to Central America

It's a simple shape for a topper - just rectangles, perfect for narrow fabrics created on backstrap looms. And I've made this shape before, not realizing it had such an exotic name - Huipil. The Huipil has been revisited by many sewists of late due to an exhibit at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. There is a sew-along underway described here and seen here. I love seeing all the variations in this simple piece.

Here is my very first Huipil. This was before I made the connection to Frida. I still wear these PJs. The top is the simplest shape possible. I cut two squares and seamed them to make shoulder seams. I left a space in the middle large enough for my head. This is a knit so it was easy to just stitch the shoulder seam open to finish the neckline. I placed pockets strategically.


And I've lost this cute top:


Both were blogged here.

This time, I did make one pattern piece: the shape for the neckline - a 5x12 rectangular opening. I used another favorite top - the Cottage shirt - to make rough guesses at my preferred width and length - roughly 30x30.


Using remnants and small pieces from stash, I inadvertently took it from simple to slightly challenging to frustrating.


Because of the small pieces, I decided I did not want to just cut a hole for the neckline. Instead I built up the 12x5 opening as I went.



This meant 2 steps forward, one step back, because I designed it as I made it. You can see in the picture above that, at one time, I had a strip of red print running across the front and the back of the shirt. I hated it - made my shoulders look so sloped!


And of course I obsessed over how to finish the interior. I did not want to use the serger because I was afraid it would add bulk to an otherwise light-weight garment.



Last but not least, that square in the front is a very dense weave cotton. I think it must have a weird finish to it. Both my machine needle and my hand-sewing needle became noticeably dull as I sewed. But I do love that print - so worth it!


I love the deep hems on the Cottage shirt and so wanted to duplicate that here. To do this, I added a deep facing with the small Souleiado red print. It's only slightly visible.


As I was finishing some of the handwork last night, I was thinking - I'll never wear this. Then I put it on just now and I love how it feels. It's a perfect hot-weather top.


Maybe I'll make another one.



Thursday, May 31, 2012

Me-Made-May Reflections

Today is the last day of May. Like others perhaps, I began the month with great enthusiasm for this challenge - to wear something I made every day. Early on, I was diligent. Then life intervened and I was a slacker, at least with respect to MMM.

Lessons learned:

  • I have lots of clothes, an embarrassment of riches.
  • I have many, many tops for summer time. 
  • Sewing bottom pieces will be my new focus, focused especially on orphan tops.
  • I tend to reach for the same pieces each day.
  • I should clean out my closet.
Here are my MMM faves:
Cutting Line Designs The Blouse Perfected  in cotton shirting

Cutting Line Design Pure and Simple Shell in cotton from Mozambique 

PJs - self-drafted top, monpei pants from Japanese Field Wear by Folkwear

TSW urban pants in rayon/linen blend, cotton sateen, and linen; TSW hudson pants in cotton, TSW plaza pants in tencel and 4-ply silk, Kwik Sew pants in cotton pique.
The following tops cover most of the rest of May:

CLD Hearts A Flutter in cotton denim

V1215 in light weight cotton pique

Folkwear middy blouse in light weight linen

Batik Butik 105 Spice and Style

TSW Quincy in linen

TSW Trio vest as a top in cotton sateen

CLD Pure and Simple Shell in linen

CLD Hearts A Flutter Shell, lower part in Japanese cotton; upper fabric unknown

TSW Mimosa Top in Japanese cotton

TSW Mimosa Top in Japanese cotton

Self-drafted top in cotton kimono pieces

TSW Mix It Top in cotton shirting

TSW Mix It Top in light weight cotton pique