Dress-Up

Peony vest in silk-cashmere, Swing tee in cotton knit, Helix pants in ponte

Back in Lubbock TX (USA), my first BFF and I loved to play dress-up. I expect we played other games, but my clearest memories are of dress-up. Our mothers and maybe our grandmothers supplied us with their castoffs and we had a blast. Our favorite item was the purple skirt. There were many negotiations around who would wear it on any given day, but I think I owned it. Or maybe she owned it and I bullied her into letting me wearing it. 

Peony vest, Odette shirt, Picasso pants

When my family moved to Dallas TX for my father's job, I ceremonially bequeathed it to her. I was sure that I would be too sophisticated in Big D to play dress-up any more. I was 8 years old.

Peony vest, Odette shirt, Helix pants

I have no memories of playing dress-up again. But today I'm thinking maybe I never stopped. I called it going-to-class, or date-night, or going-to-work. More recently I called it going-to-lunch with friends or DH, or maybe attending-a-meeting, and certainly going-to-church, as that has been a constant for me.

Peony vest, Now shirt

Now that we've been in lock-down for about 10 months, I guess I must come clean. I still like playing dress-up. I enjoy dressing my dress form, and most days I enjoy dressing myself, even though I generally stay at home.

Peony vest, Detour jacket

I have just finished a Peony vest (TSW the Sewing Workshop) in a silk-cashmere blend double cloth. I bought this at our wonderful local fabric store, Gail K. It's a scrumptious color that is hard to nail down. It is orange but also deep raspberry.

The Peony vest is super simple - three or even two pieces. TSW's gallery has some lovely artful examples. The pattern is no longer available in print form but is available as a download. The original envelope includes a second very different vest, plus lining pieces for the Peony. The left and right fronts of the Peony are different, creating an asymmetrical closure. I have made it with two right fronts on occasion. For this one I used the original and added a collar by cutting a rectangle the length of the neckline.

The fabric is very soft, yet quite firm. I initially convinced myself I could go with completely raw edges, making this a very quick make. I seem to be cold all the time right now so I looked forward to being warmed by this layer of clothing.

But once I had made some real progress, as in I almost completed it, I realized that I was wrong. This fabric will always look a bit shaggy if the edges are not finished. I had layered the center back seam that I added to the pattern. I had layered the shoulder seams and a collar I had drafted for it. Oof! Lots of reverse sewing. 

yuck

The more I ripped, the more I re-sewed, the more I knew it needed more finishing. First I cut up a piece of kimono silk purchased from Anne Williamson to use as a bias binding on the collar and front edge. That was a fail. It was too stiff and the print did not show well in bias.

yuck

Bummer.

I found some fabrics in stash that would blend with this interesting color. I chose the orange silk-cotton remnant for the interior edges, and the burnt orange silk dupioni for edges that would show. The pink-red batik was not used.

I machine stitched the hem and hated it, so back to the seam ripper. My favorite running stitch (sashiko) to the rescue.

I may add some more hand-stitches and I definitely want to add a little something to the back neckline. 

After wearing it a bit, I think I might like a closure or two. It is totally yummy to wear. I do not think I've sewn or worn a more comfy fabric. 

For now, I'm enjoying playing dress-up with it.

More June Sewing: the Nikko Jacket

If you're a Sewing Workshop groupie like I am, you may recognize this vintage pattern. It is called the Nikko jacket.

About 8 years ago, I made a muslin for it and decided not to make it. I guess that's one of the few times I've made a muslin and really used it to make a decision.

But I kept the pattern and found myself returning to it from time to time.

A while back, BSF found and purchased for me black cashmere from Gail K. I kept it for a while. It's gorgeous but I could not decide on the best pattern for it. And I have to be in a very patient mood to sew with such a deep dark black. It's like a black hole. Everything disappears into it.

I'm glad I decided on the Nikko jacket. Even though the temperatures have been topping up in the 90's (and it's humid), I know I'm going to love wearing this come winter.

The fabric was wonderful for this pattern, though, of course, I did not have enough. As usual, that was a good thing. I created a separate lapel and made that with black silk dupioni. I also used the silk for the back neck piece and all facings.

This fabric is so yummy and does not fray at all. I used this feature to make some of the seams overlapping and I did not hem the sleeves, instead just cutting the hem off carefully.

I could have left the body hem raw edged too, but I love the mitered corners on the side slits.

I have not yet added the patch pocket, but I may.

I had to fiddle a bit to get the welt pocket to be acceptable. Initially I tried it with the silk dupioni but it was too wimpy. The welt collapsed in an unattractive way. So I pains-takingly unstitched it and made it in the cashmere.

It is unlike any welt pocket I've ever made. In order to properly control it, I sewed much of it by hand. I'm rather fond of those little pick stitches that show.

I inserted the pocket backwards. Shhh. Don't tell anyone.

Peony Vest

It was first issued by The Sewing Workshop in an envelope with a second vest, the Poppy. I made both when they first came out. Only the Peony is still available from TSW, now as a download. It is such a nice basic pattern so that makes sense to me.

The Peony Vest is a sweet and simple canvas. There are a number of interesting and pretty versions in the Sewing Workshop online gallery. It is such a good layering piece.

It is composed of 3 primary pattern pieces - the back, the right front and the left front. I have made it twice now with two right fronts and an added collar. I like it very much.

The first was in denim and I am still adding stitch to it. The most recent one is made from a fabulous piece of black wool-cashmere, the same piece I used to make the Sydney jacket. I'm still glad I didn't sacrifice it to my near-disaster with that jacket.

This was so simple and so satisfying. I may decide to add some stitch to it later but I look forward to wearing it right away. It is so soft - perfect for this cold weather we're having.

The collar had to be pieced in order to use the ragged selvage as its edge. There is always room on a remnant to cut a pocket so I did, a patch pocket with a flap. So easy with fabric that does not ravel.

With the Sydney still fresh on my mind, I was not overly ambitious with this project. The process was very satisfying and I cannot wait to wear it.

Sydney Wrap

First, many thanks to readers of my blog who offered sympathy, suggestions and perspective on my Sydney jacket.  Special thanks to Helen near Sydney and Colleen from Tessiti.

I have finished. Hooray!

mine, finished.

Leather trim was an interesting option.  But...

• I have limited knowledge of sewing leather.
• Though at times, I fly without a net, the previous mistakes made me cautious.
• There is probably a great way to make lapped 3/16th inch seams with leather, but I don't know it.*
• I was able to cut the new piece from my wool/cashmere scraps with just one splice.

two remnants lapped

Here you can see how much I relied on pins to insure a decent lapped seam.

The rest of the construction was easy, fun, and I am happy with the result. The only change I made was to top stitch all of the hems

such sweet pockets tho mine are a bit small

I look forward to wearing it. The low tonight will be about 26F (-3C) so it should feel great.
It is done and I am glad to move on.

the back: not too bad

Yep. It's a wrap.

* tape or glue, maybe.