Showing posts with label Brussels Washer. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Brussels Washer. Show all posts

Tuesday, August 13, 2019

Splice Top


This is the latest top pattern from the Sewing Workshop (TSW). But I've had it and used it for a few years now. While attending Sew Kansas some years ago, I had a chance to try on their sample. Then I traced the pattern pieces and brought them home.

the sample I tried on at Sew Kansas
After that, I made it twice - once with a nubby medium weight cotton. I forgot about the uneven hems and ended up chopping off the excess in this first one - I just had pattern tissue and no instructions. I love this shirt. I even removed the white stitching and over-dyed it at one point because the black had faded so much.

2016
Since the black one was so good, I made a second one almost right away, this time out of a remnant of China silk. This was not so successful. I did something cludgie in order to make the hems uneven. I added black piping to show off the side panels. But I haven't worn it much. I think it's too fussy for me.


Then I misplaced the pattern tissue. Each time I saw Linda Lee, I pestered sweetly asked her when they were going to publish this. It's just such a good wardrobe builder. They finally published it as a PDF a few weeks ago - hooray and thanks!


I like the loose overall shape, bateau neckline, and 3/4 length sleeves. It has one distinctive feature - the side panels that are shorter than the front and back pieces. But it's just so good.


This is the first one I've made with the instructions. The instructions are not critical, except for that uneven hem. Their directions yield a lovely finished hem and side seams. And that makes me happy!


The fabric is a Brussels washer fabric (linen and rayon) from Craft South. It is a shot weave with dark blue in one direction and turquoise in the other direction. I love the color! It is a much softer, lighter Brussels washer than I've sewn, just right for this top.

top-stitching on the 3/4 length sleeves

Initially I cut out the side panels and the facing in light green linen. I decided against this embellishment.



Yep, it is plain but I have a hunch I'll be reaching for it quite a lot.



And I have my next one planned already. This pattern is a blank canvas. There are so many opportunities for variations and fun. Maybe I need some new fabric...




Friday, April 21, 2017

Vogue 9171 pas de deux

Version 2

Vogue 9171 is a relatively recent pattern developed by Marcy Tilton for Vogue. This signature tunic style seems to be very current now from my vantage point. This one has several interesting style features.

  • There is a center front seam. I almost never complain about a vertical line in a pattern. I like this.
  • The front pieces wrap to the back creating an angular shoulder seam, that sits forward about an inch or so. .
  • The pocket is inserted into a corner formed by piece 1 and 14 so that it falls in soft folds


Marcy's silhouette is often one with a lantern shape, perhaps not the best on a quasi-pear shaped person like me. I tend to fall between pear-shaped and straight-up-and-down. I have convinced myself that these tunics work as long as I pair them with narrow leg pants or leggings.

Version 1


Having said that, making these Marcy Tilton patterns with puzzler pockets are enough fun that I almost don't mind if it stays in the closet. But it won't.



This particular pattern came to my attention when I met someone (Hi, Mary of Tennessee!) at the Atlanta ACC show wearing it. She looked great in it, pairing it with leggings. She mentioned making changes to it. Now I wish I had made a note of her changes.



I made a few changes and some were intentional. My first one was not. I had several clues. The pattern only lists fabric requirements for 60" wide fabric. Mine was 45 and I had no problem cutting it out. Also it called for about a yard more than I used in cutting it out. There was a *missing* grainline on pattern piece 14. And there were all these circles lined up on one edge of piece 1 and also on piece 14.



These things did not register until I had cut out the brown and began to read the instructions. That's when I discovered that pieces 1 and 14 were to be taped together and cut as one. I decided to go ahead and make it because my cotton sateen was not terribly expensive. Also the overlap provided for taping was about a seam allowance in each case.

incorrect grain

correct grain



The result is that the side backs are off grain by quite a bit. But I'm not terribly upset. I still like this pattern as well as my result.

Folds created due to incorrect grain on side backs


Still I was curious about the effects of the grain and so I made another one in blue Brussels washer. This time I cut it out correctly. Note that it would be fine to cut pieces 1 and 14 out separately as long as 14 is cut on the correct grain.


These pockets are so much fun to make. Of course, all the markings and instructions make it easy to assemble. The folds are magically constructed.



I made a few other changes deliberately: I narrowed the sleeves to eliminate the gathering at the hem. I raised the neckline by about an inch in front. I know from experience that Marcy's necklines are often too low for me.



Two of these tunics may be enough for now, but it is a super cute pattern and such great fun to make, so I highly recommend it. In each case, I'll enjoy wearing a necklace or scarf with it, as it is a kind-of blank canvas. This one by Marcy almost has me cutting out a third one.

Marcy Tilton's version of her design for Vogue 9171, The collar is lovely, I think.

Thursday, June 23, 2016

Simple

It is hot summer time where I live so it is time for Super Simple Sewing.



And this is about as simple as it gets. The top is the tank from Sewing Workshop's MixIt pattern, a pattern full of TNT's. The tank is the simplest. The bust darts have been rotated into the hem and released. It fits through the shoulders and upper chest and skims the rest. Just right.




The pants are also from TSW, the Hudson pants, yet another TNT. For summer, I decided I would enjoy shorter pants, not shorts, but as close to shorts as I should wear anymore. I removed 8 inches from the hem which also eliminated the darts that make these pants cute and funky. That is fine. I just wanted simple pants.



The fabric for both pieces is a Michael Kaufman Brussels Washer (a blend of linen and rayon). Both are also shot pieces with red (or blue) weft and cream warp. Or maybe the other way around. I purchased it from Twill Fabric and Yarn in downtown Nashua NH, a very sweet shop.



Each piece  has a pretty selvage, I think, so I cut the pants crosswise in order to use that for the hem. I wonder if I have enough of the navy blue left over for a small bag like Mary's?