MMM Day 25

Cooler weather today means I can wear long sleeves and knit pants. Hooray!

One of the things I like about me-made-may is that I go through my closet and notice items I haven't worn. Sometimes I just need to put it in the donate pile. Other times a quick repair is needed. Or maybe I just forgot to wear it. The truth is that I have way more clothes than I need but I love to sew!

Top:

The top is a knit shirt made from Butterick 5925, a Katherine Tilton design. As I'm wearing this, I'm trying to figure out why I made a top from this pattern only once. I love this top. I made view A with a V-neckline. I no longer remember the source of the rayon knit, but isn't it cheerful? It's a good one to wear if I need a spirit lift.

Pants:

These are of course my favorite knit pant - the Helix pants from the Sewing Workshop - this time slightly cropped.

MMM Day 14

Today was a good day for layers. We traveled from Paris to Versailles, a short distance by train. We took a wonderful bike tour of Versailles. The weather was nearly perfect. It did pour on us while we tried to have a picnic.

Pants:

No surprise there - once again the Helix in black ponte. These are about ready to stand up and walk back to Atlanta. I will NOT be wearing them again this trip. But I do love them still.

Shirt:

This is the Mix It top from the Sewing Workshop. I have made this many times but this is one of my favorite. The fabric is a crisp cotton I purchased from Discover Sewing in Atlanta, I think. It has faded some but I think I like it even better with the color knocked back a bit. It seems to go with everything.

Jacket 1:

My next layer is a Katherine Tilton design for Butterick (5891). The pattern contains a sleeveless top that is most often pictured. The jacket takes a back seat compared to the very interesting lines of the sleeveless shirt. But I like the jacket.

The fabric is Brussels washer in black and white so it reads gray. It serves as a light layer over the Mix It top.

Jacket 2:

There was a bit of rain, here and there, so I was glad to have my raincoat version of the Soho coat from the Sewing Workshop. It packs easily as it is very light. It would not have been enough during the down pour but it was perfect most of the rest of the time.

There was actually another layer, provided by the bike company. This was a huge poncho with a hood and very, very long sleeves. It probably looked like a dress on me. But, boy, did it work during the down pour.

Happy Mother's Day to you, if it applies. My day was grand!

Vogue 9130 by Marcy Tilton

For about a week now, I have been sewing exclusively with knits, a change for me. I do like knits, at least some of them, but it's not my first choice for a sewing project.

It all started with an ASG class scheduled with Pam Howard, one of my all-time favorite teachers. Over the years, I have learned so much from Pam and this class was no exception. Plus I had a blast sewing with good friends.

After much back and forth in my stash, I settled on two patterns to make, a modified version of the Hudson top from the Sewing Workshop and this relatively new Vogue pattern from Marcy Tilton:

. 

The fabric I chose is a periwinkle medium weight organic cotton jersey from Alabama Chanin. I am still learning how to handle this fabric. It is a pretty stable knit that curls but not excessively. It does not have a lot of stretch, maybe less than 20%. This jersey sews easily with a ball point needle and the recommended polyester thread.

This top has such interesting lines that I decided to highlight them a bit by overlapping the seams rather than sewing them right-sides-together. This took some doing because of the allowed 5/8 inch seam allowances, way too much for overlapping seams. After a little arithmetic and with rotary cutter in hand, I reduced the seams to 1/4 inch providing for a 1/2 inch overlap.

After nearly finishing the top, I decided to adapt view B to use the collar for view C. After much messing around, I abandoned that and now have a basic Stretch-and-Sew collar:

Pam fitted the top to me and I finished at home. Then DH took my picture. Ahem.

DH said, "That is a cute pattern. (pause)" And then "You did a great job making it. (pause)" You can hear the BUT in his assessment from here, I expect. And I agree. It adds pounds to my hips. 

It sure looks cute on the dress form.

Bottom line: cute pattern, fun to make, probably will never be a favorite one to wear.

Since the class I have finished two very basic shells and my Hudson top is still in-progress. The shells are made from Vogue 8793, that classic tee designed by Katherine Tilton for Vogue, the one with zipper teeth trim on the neckline. 

Each shell is made from Alabama Chanin light-weight jersey, one red and one black (which does not photograph well). Although both are labeled light-weight, the black is really more beefy. The red will be a great undershirt. 

The variability in knits is challenging to me.

These were easy to sew and very satisfying. I know I will wear them and enjoy the soft organic knit. 

No doubt I'm still learning about knits.

Revisiting Butterick 5891, the Jacket

After reading Dixie's review on Pattern Review, as well as her blog, I knew I wanted to make Butterick 5891 again. It is an inventive and lovely design from Katherine Tilton for Butterick.

The first 2 (!) times I used this pattern, I made a top, and then a vest. Then I made the jacket. Then I updated the jacket. I just love the jacket portion of this pattern - both making and wearing. And the other views are just plain fun to make.

The fabric:

This jacket is made from a wool double knit I purchased from Louise Cutting at a sewing expo a while back. It is an unusual double knit with big dot contours woven into the design. And I think it has just a hint of something other than wool in it. Something that makes black smoke when my iron touches it. Learned that early on and did not ruin anything. Whew!

The sewing:

The only thing difficult about making this jacket was that the fabric is very, very black and it is mid-winter here. Even with two Ott lights I struggle from time to time.

An early fitting indicated that I was headed towards droopy shoulders so I shaved some off the shoulder width. The sleeves still fit in easily and I am pleased with where the shoulder seam is now.

This large button is attached to the seam between the collar and the shirt front. I added a silk dupioni loop to the other side as a closure. I also added a French knot button lower on the front. I wore it this morning and discovered that I will probably use the lower closure most and ignore the upper button. It hides under the collar anyway. But it is a cool button.

As an aside, in my last post, I showed pictures of an art piece I am working on, part of a challenge from my fiber art group. The title of the challenge is *There is no place like home.* For some reason, I have struggled with it. I'm still struggling with it. Finally I put it away and made this jacket.

And I love wearing this little jacket.

Before and After: Butterick 5891 - the Jacket

Recently Dixie of With Needle and Brush described three versions of Butterick 5891 and made the case for mining one pattern to achieve different looks.

Dixie created 3 very different tops/jackets from the jacket portion of this pattern. Each one is artful and totally Dixie.

I have made the vest/top portion of this pattern a few times, but have made the jacket only once. And I wear that jacket every chance I get.

Sometimes, I like to return to finished projects and make adjustments. And sometimes this goes very badly but this time, I like the result.

Buttons and pockets are always a good thing.

Before adding buttons and pockets

After

I added pockets with buttons and some closure buttons. I was surprised to see how it changed the look of the jacket to add that top closure.

The fabric is a Brussels washer shot in black and ivory. It is cotton and rayon and more beefy than other Brussels washers I've sewn with. This one was purchased from Waechters right before they closed.

And now I really, really want to make this again, perhaps in something appropriate to the cold weather we are having. Because this jacket is asymmetrical, it has extra possibilities with the neckline. I also wonder how it would be as a vest, longer maybe. Lined. Two left sides. Two right sides.

Butterick 5891 is a great pattern to make over and over again, Dixie. (Hope you don't mind me copying.)

Butterick 5891 is on sale for $3.19 over at Club BMV, in case you need this pattern.

Tunic Discovery

As we approach Columbus Day, I think it only fitting to say that I discovered Butterick 5925. Today, in fact.

But - you may say - there are at least 7 reviews of this on Pattern Review. And Katherine Tilton, who designed it, has several versions on her blog. If you google Butterick 5925 images, then even more fabulous versions show up.

My very first Butterick 5925 happened today. What a fun one-day project. It reminds me a little of the newest pattern from Marcy Tilton that is now winging its way to my house - Vogue 9057. But it's different too.

And to think, I used to be such a Vogue snob. Katherine Tilton has definitely raised the level of my expectation from Butterick.

This one has a twisted collar, as well as pocket bands that are twisted. I chose to do something different with the collar, but really enjoyed making the pockets. The twist creates almost a pleated effect.

For the neckline, I decided to create a quasi-V-neck. I kept the curved back of the neckline, but cut straight from the shoulder seam to the center front to create a V. I kept the width of the twisted collar but inserted it in the usual manner for a V. It stands away from my neck just a bit which I like.

I worried that the neck would be too preppy for me, but the width gives it another look. I think. I hope.

I made no other changes. The pattern includes godets on the side along with the interesting (and deep!) pockets. The godets provide the dip in the hem at the sides. It seems to fit great. Of course the fit only matters through the shoulders, bust, and arms, but I'm relieved anyway.

And the fabric is just delicious. It is a French rayon jersey from Sawyer Brook, called Street Fair. This fabric is wild with color, all brights. It makes me smile to see it.

It was relatively easy to cut, sew and press. Almost no rolling when I was cutting and sewing. I did some double stitching at the sleeve hems, as well as the shirt hem. The top-stitching doesn't show much with all that color. So I'm OK that my stitching was less than perfect.

Like the really good rayon knit that it is, the hand of the fabric is buttery, and the drape is just right for this pattern.

I'll be reaching for this tunic quite a lot, I think.

Lagniappe

Lagniappe: a small gift.

I've heard it used as a synonym for serendipity. Maybe serendipity is closer to my meaning.

Today I received a small gift of time. Lagniappe? Maybe. Serendipity. Certainly. Time to spend in my workroom to nearly finish a shirt. I savored this sweet bonus time.

The shirt is not perfect, but I won't dwell on that.

There were a few challenging aspects. First the fabric is very different from anything I have sewn. It is a nice cotton shirting with just a little sheen. I purchased it at Heddy's in Las Vegas. It presses beautifully and is easy to handle in most ways. 

The color effect is unusual, composed with seemingly equal parts blue and black in a Moiré pattern. The weave pattern is hard to track. As luck would have it, I failed to notice the Moiré appearance until I had cut it out. As usual, I had very little fabric for my planned project. Had I noticed the Moiré, I might have fretted over matching it and abandoned this.

The second challenge is that this is a very dark color, much darker than it appears in the pictures. Two Ott lamps plus the regular machine light were almost not enough, especially when I had to remove not one, but two, machine stitched buttonholes!

Having seen some really cool versions of Butterick 6026 online, I've wanted to make it again. Last time I used this fabulous pattern, I created the 3/4 sleeves shown in one of the views. I've worn and enjoyed that top.

This time, I decided to graft Louise Cutting's excellent classic sleeves onto Butterick 6026. This sleeve is from her pattern titled The Blouse Perfected. I wanted classic long sleeves with a placket and cuffs to turn back. 

I left off the collar, as I really like a simple collar band. The inside of the collar band, and the inside of the cuffs are made from another cotton shirting. 

In the picture (and in reality), it almost looks faded in the areas where the light threads dominate the dark. I like that effect.

All in all, I think I will enjoy this shirt. I just need to add the buttons. I am still hopeful that real autumn weather will show up in the southeastern US, allowing me to once again wear a long sleeved shirt.

Butterick 5891 - the jacket

Between travel and hanging out with the grands, I've had little time for much sewing. But I always sew. And if I'm not sewing, I'm thinking about sewing. You know how it is.

So I finally had a full day to myself, just as we prepare for a vacation. It's fun to make something just for a particular trip. But it can also be a disaster. I get in a hurry, don't think about what I'll really wear, make something I don't particularly like, and then pack all the old stuff.

Not this time.

I've made the top portion of Butterick 5891 twice - once as a sleeveless top, and once as a knit vest. But I had never made the jacket portion of this Katherine Tilton design. I had seen it made up and worn by a sewing friend who always looks chic. So why did I wait over a year to make this?

It is a winner.

The fabric is allegedly Brussels washer - a rayon/linen blend. But it behaves more like a cotton/linen blend. It washed and dried with a lovely texture, behaves under the steam iron, and sews like a dream, has just the right amount of drape and body for a jacket. And it seems like it will be a great single layer jacket for many occasions. For now, it will mostly serve me on cool nights or with too-cold air conditioning.

So what is there to like about this jacket pattern?

• Set-in sleeves that sit right at the natural shoulder
• Princess lines in the front
• Center back seam for little extra tweak on the fit
• Funky collar that frames the face
• Asymmetrical center fronts
• Handkerchief hem

 And only a few very minor dislikes:

• No suggestions for finishing seams. And you have to finish the seam edges, I think. I used a mock felled seam treatment throughout.
• One of those front facings that wants to flop open unless you nail it down with buttons or something. I just tacked mine down for now. No time for buttons.

Next time, I'll definitely extend the cut-on facing to mirror the center front pieces, so that the inside edge of the facing aligns with the princess seam. Not only will it be easier to nail down the facing but it will cover some of the raw edges at the collar.

There will definitely be a next time. I think it will make a wonderful vest for cooler weather.

Welcoming Spring with B6026

Another really good pattern from Katherine Tilton for Butterick. And a good color to wake up my wardrobe to spring. I think it is a classic and so will become a TNT for me.

Spring in the southeastern US comes in color waves. It seems that each week there are new shades of spring.

This green shirt-weight linen is from Sawyer Brook, probably purchased a year or so ago. As is always the case with a good linen, it was a delight to sew. With linen, I find I can easily finger press little spots needing it without actually steam pressing. Then when it was complete, the steam iron performed its magic to show off a crisp summer green. And, of course, I'm good with linen wrinkles - rather fond of them, actually.

And this pattern is just so sweet. I love the use of the pin-tucks in the side seam (creating the illusion of a waistline) and in the neckline (framing the face). And there are pin-tucks on the elbow length sleeves, giving the sleeve some shape and style.

The pin-tucks are to be 1/16 inch wide. Now, I don't know about you, but I don't even have a way to accurately measure 1/16 inch. So of course I worried a little. I think mine range from 1/16 to 1/8 inch but it seems to have worked out OK.

The next time I make it - oh, yes, I definitely want to make it again - I will not make tucks. Instead I'll use a double needle to create channels, much as I did on a Chado Ralph Rucci shirt two years ago. I should have made some samples to see if it drew the fabric in enough. I'm betting it would.

This pattern is fitted including fish eye darts in the back. This is refreshing after sewing so many loose-fitting tops. There is enough ease, I think, but I will see if I actually reach for it regularly, or if I retreat to those other tops.

I sewed a size 12 through the shoulders, grading out to a 14 through the bust and then to a 16 through the hips. And I ended up using 3/8 inch SAs in the side seams. So in reality, this is probably size 12-16-18.

Here it is on me. I'm even including a back picture. Normally I would not. But I really like all aspects of this classic sweet summer shirt.

Vogue 8975

the Imalittleteapot pose

Vogue 8975 is that new little French house dress from Marcy Tilton. I love almost everything about it. Well, no, I love everything about it.

• the close fit through the shoulders on down through the bust.
• the genius pockets
• the drape that skims high hip fluff and a multitude of other sins
• the fact that the pattern is a puzzle

I love puzzle patterns. Sometimes I think I'm happier puzzling them out than I am actually wearing the finished garment. That may be why I am such a collector of patterns. It's fun to fully exploit one pattern, using it in many different forms, but sewing up a new pattern can be exhilarating. 

There were two items that threw me - one instruction-related and one fabric-related. 

Fabric: it always throws me when they require two-way stretch. I know that lots and lots of people read that phrase and know exactly what it means. Not me. I read it and say to myself, "Now is that two-way as opposed to one-way, or two-way as opposed to four-way?"  I really like that Jalie describes their knit fabric recommendations as "horizontal stretch" and "both horizontal and vertical stretch." In this case, it requires horizontal and vertical stretch. I think.

The one step that threw me was step 11 (side seams):

"Pin front to back at sides, matching notches and small circles. Stitch, breaking stitching at small circles. Stitch again 1/4 " away in seam allowance. Trim. Press seam allowances toward back."

I sewed the side seams from the arm hole down to the small circles and tied off my threads. This left about 5/8" of fabric on the back, and 2.5" fabric on the front. I could not determine what to do with the extra 2.5". There seemed to be two possibilities - wrap the excess fabric back around the side seam, creating a fold in the front hem and restitch the side seam, or turn the corner and stitch the excess front side seam to the back hem. I did the latter. And it worked, I'm pretty sure. It seems to have created the hem-cupping that is illustrated in the cover photos. 

excess fabric front piece, side seam

Side seam finished (front hem is almost parallel to side seam in pic

Actually I sent Marcy a note asking for help with step 11. She confirmed that I completed this step correctly. And she told me that this and her wonderful new jacket pattern are the number 1 and 2 sellers at Vogue. And we're not surprised, right? These are just great designs. And the designer is lovely and generous.

I did make a couple of other changes based on my body and my preferences. I raised the neckline and widened the sleeves.

With this wild fabric, it's hard to see the fabulous design lines, so I'm posting inside-out pix. I hope to make this in contrasting fabrics, like Marcy, next time.

Front is longer than back, And I'll wear leggings or tights with this.

Such clever pockets that are part of the genius front drape

As soon as I saw Vogue 8975 published on clubbmv I knew I had to make it. I was (almost) prepared to spend near-full price for it. I am very impatient. But clubbmv came through with one of their wonderful sales and I ordered it (and a few more). 

Katherine Tilton has published another puzzler for Butterick. Just saw Ann's write-up at Stitch Me Up and I know it will be fun to sew too. And have you seen her new pants pattern (also Butterick)? I think it has TNT potential.

Just realized that I am wearing Tilton designs head-to-toe on this cold Saturday morning. Yep, I'm a big fan.

Pants: Vogue 8929 (stretch woven)

Tee: Vogue 8793 (rayon knit)

Vest: Butterick 5891 (double side ponte)