Tuesday, July 8, 2014

Butterick 5891 - the jacket

Between travel and hanging out with the grands, I've had little time for much sewing. But I always sew. And if I'm not sewing, I'm thinking about sewing. You know how it is.

So I finally had a full day to myself, just as we prepare for a vacation. It's fun to make something just for a particular trip. But it can also be a disaster. I get in a hurry, don't think about what I'll really wear, make something I don't particularly like, and then pack all the old stuff.

Not this time.

I've made the top portion of Butterick 5891 twice - once as a sleeveless top, and once as a knit vest. But I had never made the jacket portion of this Katherine Tilton design. I had seen it made up and worn by a sewing friend who always looks chic. So why did I wait over a year to make this?

It is a winner.

The fabric is allegedly Brussels washer - a rayon/linen blend. But it behaves more like a cotton/linen blend. It washed and dried with a lovely texture, behaves under the steam iron, and sews like a dream, has just the right amount of drape and body for a jacket. And it seems like it will be a great single layer jacket for many occasions. For now, it will mostly serve me on cool nights or with too-cold air conditioning.

So what is there to like about this jacket pattern?

  • Set-in sleeves that sit right at the natural shoulder
  • Princess lines in the front
  • Center back seam for little extra tweak on the fit
  • Funky collar that frames the face
  • Asymmetrical center fronts
  • Handkerchief hem

 And only a few very minor dislikes:

  • No suggestions for finishing seams. And you have to finish the seam edges, I think. I used a mock felled seam treatment throughout.
  • One of those front facings that wants to flop open unless you nail it down with buttons or something. I just tacked mine down for now. No time for buttons.
Next time, I'll definitely extend the cut-on facing to mirror the center front pieces, so that the inside edge of the facing aligns with the princess seam. Not only will it be easier to nail down the facing but it will cover some of the raw edges at the collar.

There will definitely be a next time. I think it will make a wonderful vest for cooler weather.