Thursday, October 24, 2013

The Euro Pant Vogue 8929

Vogue 8929 is Marcy Tilton's Euro Pant. The pattern envelope comes with 4 views - A and B are quite similar, C and D are paired also. I am just finishing my (wearable) muslin for view D. I used some gifted stretch denim to mimic a stretch woven I purchased from Marcy.

Oh, the *wearable* muslin, that overly optimistic, aspirational garment. Made with fabric you are willing to trash but something you wouldn't mind wearing.

Well, I say, why not make a wearable muslin! Otherwise I end up with all these un-wearable-muslins. I feel bad just throwing it away. Maybe I should whack them into small pieces to stuff a dog pillow.

Anyway back to Vogue 8929. Marcy had a pair at the Sister's Design Outside the Lines retreat in June. I was so thrilled to see them there. And it simply served to ramp up my anticipation for the publication in Vogue.

Great styling. Tapered leg with a gusset on the inseam. How sharp that would be in leather. Even without a contrast it is a subtle nod to chaps.

And such perfect pockets! The manner of construction makes it easy to adjust the pants width slightly without losing the pockets. I don't think I've ever seen that. I typically omit the pockets figuring I'm going to need all the room available for my high-hip fluff.

Then there is the elastic back waist band which solves a fit issue I have - gaposis between the waist and the high hip fluff. It also means that they are so very comfortable.

The front waistband sits flatly on a not-flat surface. Magic.

Speaking of the waistband, there is a slight error in the tissue. There are two waist band pieces - one for the right and one for the left. This seems like a good idea given the fly application. But the two pieces are actually completely identical. In order to make these with the fly, it would be good to add about 1/2 " to the front edge of the left waistband, I think.

Yes, there is a real, live fly application. I don't believe I've ever applied a full-blown fly treatment. I'm pretty good at mock flies but I had never tried the real thing. The instructions were surprisingly good, though I would have loved a detailed drawing of the finished fly showing the under layer.

Lastly, amazingly, they actually fit. As I was making these, I was thinking how easy it would be to overlay my TNT fitted pants, but I really wanted to try this out with all of the details mentioned above. And I am one of those rare birds who can actually wear some pants made right out of the envelope, with a bit of tweaking for my flat butt. At least they tend to fit if I am honest about my measurements. And these are comfort pants so fit is less of an issue, I think.

I'm pleased with my first version of the Euro Pant. They are too short to wear until the spring arrives. So I'm going to go ahead and cut into my nice black stretch woven fabric from Marcy.

Planned changes:

1. Add 11 inches at the lengthen/shorten line below the knee on the front piece, the back piece, and the gusset. Actually there is another error on the gusset. It is about 1 inch longer than the adjacent front and back pieces, so I'll only need to add 10 inches to the gusset. (I'm wondering if I accidentally cut the pants off at the view C line, rather than the view D line - 11 inches is a lot!)

2. Omit the back darts. With the elastic waist in the back, the darts serve very little purpose and increased the bulk quite a bit with the denim.

3. I'm also going to use the front waistband for view C, rather than going with the fly treatment. My faithful Bernina with its perfect buttonholer is cooling its heels at the shop while we wait for the part to arrive from some distant galaxy. So no point is working hard on a fly treatment only to ruin it with an inferior buttonhole made on my mid 70's Futura. A patient person would probably wait.

Can't wait to make the black version now.


  1. Hmmmmm...... this is one of those pants that wasn't on my list, but your review has me re-thinking.....


  2. Those are really cute, Martha!

  3. So glad you posted your muslin, Martha. I've been looking at this pattern, same view, but with elastic waistband in mind, as well. the pockets are super cute. Looking forward to your final version.

  4. These look super comfy and they look great on you. Ya gotta love a wearable muslin!
    I so enjoyed meeting you at Sawyer Brook the other day. We always enjoy meeting our customers, but meeting a sister blogger is something special. I'm glad you came in!

  5. Martha, yea for wearable muslins! If you don't mind, I would appreciate your elaborating on something you wrote (because I think I have the same fit issue): "Then there is the elastic back waist band which solves a fit issue I have - gaposis between the waist and the high hip fluff." ??? Thanks so much.

    1. Martha, thx for sending me your reply. In my case, a have hip fluff, but not at the center back. What happens is that I have fabric bunching in sort of a horizontal row from both sides of the center back, just below the waistband. I always wear my tops out, that is, the waistband doesn't show. But it sounds like that isn't what happens with you, because the elastic waistband solves your problem. Hmmm, fitting, the never-ending quest. ;)

  6. I like these pants on you very much-these would be nice schooling breeches for riding :-)