Monday, November 4, 2013

Vogue 8934, the jacket version

Do you see the 3 pockets?
Vogue 8934, version 2, continues to be great fun, especially now that I have my sweet Bernina 440 up and running again. This piece is almost finished; button auditions are in process.

My first version of Vogue 8934 was a hybrid of the two views. It was lined like view B, but I omitted the hidden placket and instead used buttons like that shown in View A.

This second version is loosely based on view A. The face fabric is a medium weight black linen that is soft from washing. I interlined it with radiance (a blend of silk and cotton) by channel quilting the two layers together. This was done after cutting but prior to construction, so it was constructed as an unlined jacket. Two discarded men's ties and some remnants of an afternoon of fabric dyeing give the interior a little color via a Hong Kong seam finish.

Jacket interlined with silk-cotton radiance
I cut it as a jacket, rather than a coat, omitting the distinctive hem darts. It retains the face-framing collar and front band, a favorite feature of this pattern. I cut my hem straight across so that it would drop down a bit on the sides, creating a slight flare or swing.

A small piece of  black-and-cream mud cloth has been languishing in my stash for number of years.  It was about 3 inches by 18 inches. I've wanted to use it previously, but found it was too small to be useful. As little accent pieces, there is just enough. In fact I have one small square of it left over.

Mud cloth strip down the back

The accent piece on the lower right is also a pocket. And the diamond shaped pieces on the sleeves are pockets (that is, open on one side, but let's face it, I'm not stashing a twenty in either of the sleeve pockets). As I look at the pictures, it looks like those sleeve pieces might be better a little higher up. Maybe like elbow patches? Or maybe not.

This jacket has reached the wearable stage but it will likely evolve a bit more. Though it is still a little plain, it does go with black linen pants made back in August (Vogue 7881, my TNT fitted pants thanks to Pam Howard). It creates a kind of casual suit.

I pinned the two chunky white buttons on to see how they look. I think they might work if there were three, but I only have two. If I go with such large buttons, then I'll use large snaps, not machined button holes.

Vogue 8934 is one of those styles with very classic, lovely lines. Good bones, I think.

Errata for Vogue 8934 view B:

Piece 18 (front lining B) is almost unnecessary. I recommend cutting the front lining from piece 1, just as the outer fabric. In fact 18 is smaller (dips down at the neck edge) than the piece (1) it lines. The only helpful difference is that the darts in 18 are more shallow, leading to some helpful excess in the lining..

Piece 22 (collar facing B) seems to be unnecessary also. It is so much larger than the piece it faces that something would have to be whacked off at the center front, or you could layer it under the front band. Instead of piece 22, I recommend use of piece 11 (Collar A, B) for both collar and facing. Interface the collar. I would consider using lining for the facing if the outer fabric is something like a scratchy wool.

Nov 5, 2013 update: I now *get it.* The placket is interesting and clever and I am easy to confuse, at times. Sorry.


  1. Your jacket looks fabulous - the additional patches are such fun. And I LOVE the idea about using silk ties as binding - so clever!!

  2. I like the two buttons personally. And the mud cloth is a nice addition. Used at last :)

  3. Great looking jacket--you've used the mud cloth strategically. Very elegant.

  4. Typical Martha, beautiful inside and out :)

  5. GORGEOUS, Martha!!! The use of your mudcloth remnant is brilliant!!!

  6. WOW! You have done a wonderful job on this jacket. I love the accents. You are just outdoing yourself, Lady! I'm loving seeing all your new creations.

  7. I love your artistic details--beautiful sewing and an extra touch!

  8. Your jacket is a beautiful piece of work inside and out! I need to dig through my stash to see if I have any fabulous pieces hiding in there!

  9. Your jacket is beautiful - I love the details

  10. A distinctive version of this pattern. I think you're right about it having "good bones". I think it can look good at several different lengths.
    Re. the collar pieces, in working with the pattern I discovered the view B front band attaches to the bottom of the collar, rather than the end. That is why piece 22 is longer. That is, the front band extends all the way to the top of the collar on view A, but ends at the bottom of the collar on view B. I hope this makes some sense.
    I really like your jacket!

  11. By the way, your projects on your website are stunning--impeccable workmanship with excellent choice of fabrics. Elegant, distinctive, and original--you must be the best-dressed woman in town! Obviously professional.
    best, nadia