Wednesday, July 19, 2017

Favorite Pattern Hack - the Neckline

Over time I keep coming back to a neckline that has great appeal for me. This one is particularly good for hot summer days when I to minimize the fabric enclosing me.

Fabric: As Mama always said, it's all about the fabric. That is no less true for this piece. It is a silk dupioni purchased at Gail K here in Atlanta. I washed it before cutting into it in order to knock back the sheen just a bit. It is a fairly weak fabric with no give at all, but easy to wear and easy to sew. I love, love, love the coppery milk chocolate color of it.

Base pattern: One of my all time favorite patterns for summer is the Mix It Top from the Sewing Workshop. The pattern envelope contains 3 very different shirts, but the Top is the best, IMO. It's loose but has bust darts and good fit through the shoulders. I only altered the neckline finish.

As you can see, the original has a key-hole opening in the front and a smallish mandarin collar. I replaced it with a reversed facing, an idea I first encountered in the Egyptian shirt pattern from Folkwear:

I have made this one many times!

I attached the facing to the wrong side, flipped it to the right side and hand-stitched it in place. It creates a bib effect.

Initially I thought I'd like 3/4 length sleeves. Unfortunately I did not measure properly and the sleeve was too tight, so I had to return to the sleeves from the Mix It pattern.

In order to make the facing, I placed pattern tissue over the original and drew in the lines:

I also lengthened the pattern 1 inch. I think I am influenced by all the tunics I see everywhere. Shorter tops are beginning to look outdated to me.


  1. Dupioni is my favorite fabric, and I've been saving some yardage of this color to make a tunic "someday." Your top is beautiful, and the color is great on you!

  2. Cute Top on you!
    and Good Tips like this are much appreciated...
    :-) Chris

  3. The colour of that fabric is glorious and suits that top perfectly. I like longer tops too but seem to always be short of fabric so finish up with short ones! I've just had another look and you are stunning in this top.

  4. Love the top and Love the color! May I ask, do you hand wash your dupioni tops? Thanks in advance!

    1. Thanks! I don't hand-wash, but I might dry-clean this in order to maintain the color.

  5. This is a definite win! The color, the neckline hack, the added length, it all turned out great, and it looks fabulous on you. I like a longer top as well. I think they are more flattering on most of us. Thanks for sharing the hack. I would imagine that this facing gives the silk more body around the neckline and improved the structure of the top.

  6. So clever, as always:) I love that color too, and it looks great on you!