Thursday, August 16, 2012

The Stubborn Sewer

Which I am. Stubborn, not disciplined.

Great double collar - love it!
Marcy Tilton's new jacket pattern, Vogue 8839 is so cool. As soon as it arrived from ClubBMV, I knew it would be on the top of the queue. And then she posted her versions on her web site. Oh, you temptress, you. Now I want all of that fabric too.

It is described as a *loose-fitting jacket* but recommended fabrics are *moderate stretch knits.* I sew more with woven fabrics than knits, and I guess I'm a bit intimidated by knits, even after a great class on the subject by Pam Howard.

View A - the shorter version
So, stubborn sewer that I am, I decided to try this out in a cotton muslin fabric. Surely it will work equally well in a woven. After all, it is *loose-fitting.*

It didn't work but it's cute.

The pattern is actually drafted for fabric with stretch. Each pattern piece says *moderate stretch only.*  But I had to try it.

I did learn something helpful. To me, anyway. It's not such a bad idea to make a cotton muslin trial for a future knit piece. It is now clear which pieces absolutely must be made out of a knit, and which ones might be OK in a woven or at least a less stretchy knit.

Sausage arms, shoulders tight too
Must be out of a proper knit:

  • Sleeves
  • Sleeve bands
  • Back
  • Side front
  • Back band
  • Horizontal front bands

Could be made out of a stable knit (seems like Marcy pointed that out on her blog, now that I think about it):

  • Collar
  • Front
  • Vertical front bands

I think the above pieces might even work in a woven, but lesson learned, I'm going to try it in a knit. A knit I don't own yet. Or maybe multiple knits I don't own yet.

Marcy Tilton has made this up in the most perfect fabric. How uncreative would it be to just copy her?


  1. Martha

    this looks like it will be a super jacket when finished in your fashion fabric. Look forward to seeing it

  2. You are right, that is cute. And that is very useful that you have isolated the pattern pieces that require stretch. You can now make a hybrid!

  3. I have seen a number of pieces online with knit/woven combos. You will be so on trend Martha. The jacket front looks really nice in your muslin.

  4. Even the muslin looks good enough to wear. Great jacket.

  5. I must have this pattern! Good luck on #2!

  6. I had exactly the same thought about making an exact copy of her version - every time I look at it I create a new puddle of drool!

    Can't wait to see your final version (and can't wait to make my own!)

  7. What a cute pattern. Anxious to see what you do with it.

  8. Hi Martha - I'm way behind in blog reading, so it was fun to catch up with what you've written the past few weeks. Our design aesthetics are similar, so it's fun to see what you've done with patterns in my stash.
    This was a great exercise for you to undertake, figuring out if the jacket can work in woven fabric. I'm not sure about all of the folds on the front on my body, but they look great on you. I'm looking forward to seeing what you make with this pattern!