|Paco includes a label in the pattern. Love it.|
Because they travel across the Atlantic to me, and a bit of postage is involved, I decided to go ahead and buy three - the Coolie Jacket, the T (shaped) coat, and the drape front shell. I started on the Coolie Jacket first.
I'm so spoiled by using Louise Cutting patterns. So I did wring my hands a little, and scratch my head a bit on the in-seam pockets.
I shopped the stash and used red silk noil for the face fabric. I decided to use a Mary Ray quilting technique, and chose cotton flannel for the batting, and Bemberg Ambiance for the lining. I channel quilted it following the front grain line. This created a nice chevron effect on the lower portion of the cut-on sleeves.
The pattern calls for 60 inch width in the fabric, but my noil was only 45 inches. I pieced the sleeves on both the front and the back, based on where I encountered the selvage. This fit in with the chevron in the quilting, as the new seam followed the grain.
|pretty curved vents on the side|
This jacket is evolving. Garments often do this. I sort of enjoy it.
This time, I tried some experiments. Now that I've worn it, I know some things that will be changing.
First, I created a closure with bias tubes on one side, to be wrapped around buttons on the other side. It doesn't really work, so I will convert the tubes into button loops.
Second, I pinked the edges of the facing. In version 1.0, I turned the edges of the facings under about 1/4 inch and hand-stitched them to the lining. This created a hard line, particularly across the back. Not good-looking.
In the next iteration, I pressed the pinked edges flat and hand-stitched them to the lining.
That worked until I wore a white blouse under it. Lots of red fluff stuck to the shirt. Next I will apply a Hong Kong Finish to the edge of the facings, similar to what I did to the seams. Hope the hard horizontal line doesn't appear again.
|bracelet length sleeves|
More red fluff. So off with those bindings, and on with some ordinary (enclosed) binding in silk dupioni of similar color.
The raw edge was pretty, just not practical in this instance.