Tuesday, July 6, 2021

Vogue 1784 - I love it and I hate it

I've been anxious to get back into Marcy Tilton patterns. They are such good puzzles, a real pleasure to sew. But then Linda Lee re-introduced the Sewing Workshop Hibiscus, a very good shirt. I was torn but  Vogue 1784 won out. I wanted to sew a new-to-me pattern.
Vogue 1784 Marcy Tilton design

As I was pondering these two interesting patterns, I saw a review on Pattern Review by Linda Rohlfing of Vogue 1784. Her review is not positive, and it is accurate. I just had to prove it to myself. I'm stubborn that way. 

From Pattern Review, shirt by Linda Rohlfing

I love, love, love Gayle's version here. Her style is wonderful, edgy and totally wearable, a difficult combination to pull off, I think.

As Linda Lee re-launched the Hibiscus, I was drawn to her fresh summer looks. Her kits include gingham and other shirt fabrics in sweet combinations. Although I am strongly influenced by Linda Lee, I like to organize my own kits. Or I think I do.

Slightly modified from original Hibiscus Shirt pattern, Sewing Workshop

There was also this yummy display of summer ginghams and coordinates at Five-Eighth Seams, a lovely shop in Charleston, SC where we were visiting our daughter. I so wish I had taken a picture of their table. This shop knows its market and has fabrics that speak to the Charleston vibe. Their fabrics are also reasonably priced, so cheaper than a kit, in theory, if not in practice. Sigh.

Here is my 2012 version of the Hibiscus. Now that I've dropped some pounds, I'll be pulling this one out to wear again. 

In my heart-of-hearts, I know I like subtle hints of mixing fabrics. That little neckband is an example of something I like and I wear. Yet here is my first version of Vogue 1784, a what-was-I-thinking-make:

Part of the problem is that it is too big on me, maybe? I did not spot the finished measurements on the pattern pieces until it was too late. I chose size M and might trace off size S next. 

I have decided to think of this as a toile. I had fun making it and it wasn't terribly expensive. And, heck, maybe I will wear it. It reads pajamas and I can always use new ones.

I do really, really like this pattern with all its interesting twists and turns, especially the collar-from-hell. I have become somewhat complacent in my sewing with the Sewing Workshop. The instructions are extensive and I don't have to think that hard. 

The instructions for Vogue 1784 were not nearly so thorough. And that is sort-of OK. It is not a bad idea to engage my mind in a puzzle, though I prefer one with a solution.

Let's take a quick look at Linda Rohlfing's criticism of Vogue 1784. Her complaint is that one front facing is not wide enough to reach the shoulder seam and fully cover the raw edges of the collar. Her complaint is spot-on if you try to follow the written instructions provided in the pattern envelope.

Then I discovered a series of YouTube videos put together by Marcy on the collar and facing. Without these, I would have had the same problem that Linda did. I had a different problem. 

Look at steps 29 and 30 in the written instructions. It is impossible to cover the raw edges of the collar on the inside if these steps are taken. So, thought I, follow Marcy's videos and ignore the written instructions. Nope. There are too many gaps in the videos. I tried combining the written instructions and the videos. Nope. 

I wrote to her and she replied that, short of sitting next to me, she could not offer anything else. I sorted it out on my own but I'm not happy. There are weak spots that may ravel in the wash. That's OK - I might not ever need to wash this.

I love that interesting collar and I'm not ready to give up. If I come up with a solution that I can describe I'll re-post. 

In the meantime, here are some recommendations if you decide to make this pattern, included mostly for me when I try to repeat this crazy experience.

  • Mark all circles, small and large, clearly. I used two different colors of basting thread to distinguish them on the fronts and the back. The tucks made no sense without really clear tailor's tacks for the two different sized circles.
  • There four (4!) different pattern pieces labeled Front Collar. So, keep all collar pieces pinned to the corresponding pattern tissue even as while sewing them. Piece 6 looks a lot like piece 9 and I would never have kept them straight without keeping the tissue actually attached to them.
  • Make more samples in hopes of inventing a way to make that collar!

Here is my finished collar from the inside:



Now I'm thinking I need matching PJ pants. Five-eighths Seams is just a phone call away. Maybe they still have some of that fabric...


Nope.


13 comments:

  1. I really appreciate your review of this and its honesty. I don't want this kind of puzzle in my sewing. And I haven't sewn this pattern because I always felt the collars looked--too much(?). So taking my copy of the pattern and putting it in the Goodwill box. Might put a note on the outside to warn potential buyers. Ha ha. Jean

    ReplyDelete
  2. While I love Tilton's aesthetic and have sewn several of her garments, I have written them off at this point. I love a sewing challenge but find I just have to do to much to make them work and after that I find they really don't flatter me at all. I find they work better if I remove a fair amount of volume for starters as well but for now they are all tucked away in the back of my pattern boxes not to be revisited for now. I also love Linda Lee's designs and have been quite happy with those. She knows and uses the subtleties of pattern making where others gloss those finer aspects over.

    ReplyDelete
  3. You did an amazing job with this shirt, though. It looks totally wearable to me. My adventures with collars extend to the Now [or Zen?] shirt by Linda Lee as I don't aspire to anything else more complicated. HOWEVER . . . . yours is just absolutely lovely. Absolutely. .... The Tilton patterns are all that are left in the Big 4 that would tempt me. I trust those sisters and their instructions so it's a disappointment to find that this one just didn't work. Ah, well. Linda Lee has spoiled us magnificently!!

    ReplyDelete
  4. Oh Martha, I’m so sorry you had this much trouble with the collar and wish you had told me, we could have Zoomed and figured it out. I can help on the next one! I’ll look inside on mine and see how I resolved it.
    I think I wing it so much with patterns I propose didn’t even notice. I’m kinda a rebel that way, can’t seem to follow patterns as much as I should!!
    And thank you so much for your kind words!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Gayle - I bought this pattern after I had seen your many iterations of it on your blog. But you didn't mention difficulty with the collar like everyone else who has tried to make this shirt. I am also wondering what size you made as it seems to be terribly oversized.

      Delete
    2. Gayle… I have looked everywhere to find your black and white pattern name and number you used May 2016 adding color 3/4 sleeves. I absolutely love it! If you note it in your blog or Pinterest I would really appreciate it..thx

      Delete
  5. I love the gentleness of the colors you have together in this shirt! I hope you can use your creative juices and come up with a solution and an even more fanciful color than comes in the "errata". There should be an error admitted by the Tilton's, with a solution. I am so sorry for your frustration. I am also thankful for your inspiration. You make me want to sew some thing interesting like this for my self. It is way large on you but I do love it. Love the colors!

    ReplyDelete
  6. I’ve been sewing fir many years but simple things. I tackled this pattern. I made 2 muslins of just the collar with short pieces of the front and back. One with interfacing, one without. Then I started the real fabric. There is NO WAY the pattern instructions allow the sewist to make this collar. Marcys 4 videos are very very helpful. But my final version is 80% ok. Some of her tips for one side of the collar do not translate to the other side. Also, right now, I’m am STRUGGLING with figuring out the pleats on the right front to do the mitred hem. Also, I would put interfacing in the back collar but not the other pieces.

    ReplyDelete
  7. I made Marcy Tilton shirt here recently. I decided to stick with a solid. The detail tuck in the front just about drove me crazy. But I finally figured it out. The collar went together easier than I thought it would. I kept sleeve as written and love them. My problem was the front facings…. They are not correct at all! I was furious to get that far and run into this issue. However, I was able to save it and made notes on what I should do next time, I there is a next time.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yes - the facings are a problem, and simply will not work as written. Some kind of disconnect between Marcy and the pattern drafting folks, I expect.

      Delete
  8. I made this shirt last summer. Yes, there are issues with the pattern and I also watched Marcy’s video. She stated in the video that she was asked by Vogue to dummy down the instructions. Frankly, we are seeing this more and more in Vogue. My older Vogue designer patterns skimped on nothing. The designer could walk you right through it all. Pattern pieces were always correctly matched. Unfortunately, we are seeing more imperfection in the Big Four! It’s sad, but I’m switching more to independents. They have control over their patterns, I think.

    With this said, I did manage to figure out a solution to fix the collar issue in the back and I had to add onto the shortened facing to get it to work. In the end, I saved the shirt and enjoyed wearing it.

    Put your experience to work because there is usually always a solution. Make notes on pattern and modify before making it again. I’d make this shirt again.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks for your perspective. I do think I may make it again, drafting a faciing for the entire neckline.

      Delete
  9. I plan on making this shirt again. I love mine. The part that made me angry was the facings we’re not drafted correctly for this garment, at least not in the size I cut. The collar is my favorite feature. I love the added square to the back of your version. I made mine out of a solid lightweight linen blend. I should have used something a little heavier. I love this shirt!

    ReplyDelete